Keep after the leaks.. you'll have it figured out!.. The little oil tube clamp should be right next to the end... help some..
Sneezles61

I had the oil line off the autolube pump to drain the oil level below the sight glass. I didn't bother putting the clamp back into the correct location since I'll be pulling everything apart.

I had a oil leak on my Ct1c in the same location if you are using a aftermarket gasket it maybe thinner what I did was use yamabond on both sides and tightened that side first no more leaks on your head it needs to be retorqued several times when replacing the head gasket that’s normal check it several times after a ride when it’s cooled down 

I’m pretty sure the gasket for the right side cover is the original 50 year old gasket. The screw heads are still pristine. The screw heads where the original owner put a Phillips head screwdriver to are beat up or destroyed. I believe the cylinder base gasket is original too. 

Would be a good idea to replace that case gasket. I recently opened the right and left case of my '71 CT1 (for the first time in 50 years) to replace the crankshaft seals. I scraped the old right side gasket off, and ordered a new one. I didn't use any sealant on it, just put a little bit of grease on both sides, and since I put it together a week or so ago haven't had a drop leak out. I also replaced the auto lube pump base gasket, and the oil seal under the white plastic drive wheel.

By the way, your bike looks awesome!

Bought this off eBay, showed up yesterday.

 

I'd read through several posts on removal/installation and was ready.

 

Drilled a 3/32" hole in the leaking sight glass and attempted to insert a wood screw. Nope, hole wasn't big enough. Stepped up to a 1/8" bit.

 



Before I started wiggling the screw I heated the rubber with a hair dryer. The heat worked well in helping to remove all the grommets I'd replaced, and it helped to soften up this 50 year old part allowing it to come out pretty easily.

 

 

I applied 2 stroke oil to the hole in the oil tank and heated the new sight glass rubber with the hair dryer then applied 2 stroke oil to its reservoir side rubber. I carefully pushed it in with my thumb.

 

 

I was able to do the job with the bike on my stand with the oil tank still in the frame. Took about 20 minutes. Didn't dent the tank or push the new sight glass through. Easy Peasy!

One more oil leak taken care of!

Two more oil leaks appear to be taken care of. The gasket for the right side cover and the oil seal for the autolube pump. I'm pretty sure the oil pump seal was leaking as the area was filled with 2 stroke oil when I first removed the cover back in November and after a couple shakedown runs there was oil in there again. I've had the pump rebuilt by DEET. Check out how the gasket was on the side cover:

 

No wonder it was leaking! I don't believe anyone's been in this side since the bike was built from the condition of the screw heads compared to the others. When I first brought the bike home there was oil all over the bottom of the engine, I think I know why now. It's probably been leaking since new.

While I had the cover off, and had the seal, I replaced the oil seal to the kick starter shaft. It was by far the hardest to remove of those I've now done. It really didn't want to give up its seat.

I saw no oil leaking from anywhere after a five mile shakedown ride. Now just to wait on my antique license plate...

20 mile ride Thursday morning on the back roads. Nice morning with temps in the high 60's and sunny. Awesome ride, the bike runs really well. The only oil leak I can find now on the motor is at the tach stopper/bushing.

 

All seals and gaskets I'd replaced are finally dry.
It looks like there are two O-rings at the tach housing assembly, anyone have any info on replacing these?



Is the O-ring, #7, attached to the tach housing, #5, or is it sitting between the housing and the driven gear, #6? It appears the tach housing should lift out once the stopper, #11 is removed.

 

A week away for work then a week for an eBay seller to re-send me the correct shim and I've got the tach housing assembly re-built and back in the motor. A 13 mile ride and no more oil coming out of it.
 

The assembly seemed to be a bit of an odd configuration. There's an external O-ring on the housing that sits in a groove, pretty normal there. The internal O-ring that has the tach driven gear below it and the tach cable above it, is the odd place, no grove for it to sit into. The O-ring sits on a ledge, for lack of a better description, with a thin shim above it and, what's called, a bushing above it. The area above the internal O-ring was rusty and didn't want to come apart and it didn't look like a good idea to work the internal O-ring out with the rusty parts above it. There are two holes in the bushing a pick can be inserted into to pull it out, but no luck. I soaked the assembly in Evaporust for about six hours then let it soak in Liquid Wrench for the week while I was away for work. Once home I worked with a pick in the bushing's holes until it came out; two torn rubber gloves and a hole in my left index finger where the pick inserted itself when slipping out of one of the holes, and I got it apart. It all went back together rather easily. I applied Assembly Lube to everything. Dropped in the O-Ring, next the Shim and drove the Bushing in with a 7mm socket. The assembly fit snug back down into the motor.

The eBay seller originally sent me these instead of the Shim I'd ordered
 

 
Anyone know what these are or what bike they're for? They could be for the underside of a gas tank to secure it to the frame, or possibly caps for a set of forks. If anyone wants them they can have them for the cost of shipping.