Out of curiosity. Son was also named Frank still in that area.

www.dayfuneralhome.com/obituary/Frank-Fischler

 

Nothing important to do this morning and the temperatures here in the north eastern US were really nice. Since I don't have my oil pump back from rebuild yet, I hooked up my auxiliary gas tank, put a bit of pre-mix in it and hooked it up to the carb. She fired on the third kick and started on the fourth.



The excessive smoke is most likely from remaining 2 Stroke oil in the crankcase, under the piston. It should clear up with some more running. I didn't want to run her for more than a few minutes to make sure she would, to check the headlight and gauge lights and shift through a few gears. I put in some pre-mix 50:1 I had with 87 octane unleaded gas, enough to start her. I have Yamaha 2 Stroke oil and some ethanol free 91 octane to put in once I get the oil pump back.
Both high and low beams work as does the speedometer light, I couldn't see a light from the tach. I took her down the street a bit shifting fine to 3rd and back to the house.
 

When I bought the bike I was excited to know it had turn signals and the original, lower, front fender. When I went to make the purchase the original owner told me when he bought the bike the turn signals weren't installed, the dealer handed them to him. They weren't put on until the mid 80's when a buddy wanted to borrow the bike to use it to get his motorcycle license, Perhaps it's mandatory in NJ (where I bought the bike) to have turn signals? I believe he told me the bike sat in that buddies barn for a while which is where the goat began to eat the seat. Anyways, I got there and yup, it had the turn signals. However, they weren't mounted with the original stays in front or out back. The fronts were mounted to the headlight bucket and the rears (later I realized) were the shorter stalk ones meant for an AT or CT with the buddy rack they also weren't mounted with the correct hardware.

 

 

 
I searched for several months for the stays to mount the front signals out on the bars where they belong, but couldn't find two complete sets. On eBay a set of NOS turn signals showed up and I bought them.

 
It wasn't until I'd installed the fronts correctly that I realized the rears were wrong. The same guy I bought the fronts from had two rears, both right side. I bought them. The only difference between the right and left rear signals in the positive wire, The right sides are longer than the left to cross over the rear fender for attachment. No big deal, I just wrapped the excess wire up into the wire holder behind the battery. 

 

Looking good. We have orange ones at the rear here in NZ.

Question...
I got my Autolube pump back from DEET a few days ago and installed it. I put the auxiliary fuel tank on, this time with 91 octane ethanol free gas and had Yamaha 2 Stroke oil in the oil tank. The pump is now feeding the motor the right amount of oil. The bike started right up, idled nice and I ripped her up and down the street. Got her back on the driveway once warmed up and turned the air screw all the way in from 1 1/2 turns and there was no change in the running of the motor. I sprayed WD-40 around the base of the cylinder, at the cylinder where the reed cage is and where the carb side connects, at the carb connection and at the carb air boot junction, no apparent air leaks, There was no excessive smoking, nor is there any 2 stroke oil visible in the transmission oil, so I figure the crank seals are okay.
Any ideas why the air screw closed had no affect on the idle?
There was a lot of oil residue around the counter shaft sprocket area, so I know I've got several oil seals to replace in that area.

Was it idling ok how it was at 1.5 turns. Does seem odd if it was ok & didn't richen up & slow down when right in. Slight blockage in the pilot jet but unlikely with such a small jet it'd be either clear or blocked.. Not sure on those if the pilot has its own air feed or draws it off the air to the needle jet. Just go over everything in the carb. Jets out of the carb & poke something through--i saved my acupuncture needles on multiple a trip there years ago haha. Not sure the guy believed me when i said why i wanted them.

I'd cleaned and rebuilt the carb when I first got the bike, all new jets. There's a block off ball in the port, in the intake side of the carb associated with the air screw, I'm not sure where it draws it's air from. It was idling fine at 1 1/2 turns out.

I just changed out the three oil seals on the left side case due to the oil leaks evident from my short ride around the block Tuesday. The collar on the shaft of the counter shaft sprocket slid right off with next to zero resistance, as did the clutch push rod. I'd have to believe these two were the culprits. Figured while I was in there, and had it, might as well do the shift shaft seal too. Did about the same ride after replacement and no more leaking!
 

 

The seals came out quite easily, I was surprised.

Congratulations, nice work!

And that engine is CLEAN! 

Whelp, the OEM fuel tap was leaking from the bowl, not the threads, but below the threads, I have all new gaskets in there and it's spotlessly clean. Oh well... I ordered a new Yamaha brand fuel tap and installed it last weekend. The new fuel tap was leaking where it sealed to the tank and at both sides of the inline fuel filter as well as from the float bowl gasket (the gasket was off eBay and was thick paper). I cut the original, 50 year old fuel line to the proper length, installed it and went for a ride, about 4 miles. The bike ran really well and clicked nicely through all gears. I now know I'm going to have to get the front wheel balanced because at 50mph it was hopping so badly I'm not sure the front tire was on the ground the whole time! When I got home I looked everything over and the old fuel line was leaking where it attaches to the fuel tap. Also there's still some oil leaking from somewhere around the three oil seals I'd replaced. The seals I put in were off eBay and not Yamaha brand, could be the issue. Further investigation is needed.

Last week I installed a new Yamaha brand float bowl gasket and attached the fuel filter with band clamps to a new piece of fuel line. I placed a small amount of synthetic grease to the fuel tap tank gasket and reinstalled it.

I went for a brief ride earlier today and it appears I may have corrected the fuel leaks, however at about 6,000 rpm's it starts to break up, when it didn't do that last weekend. Look at the pic, think the kink in the fuel line below the inline filter might be starving her of gas? Or could it be the APE inline fuel filter?