The two seals left in the kit, I’ve not installed yet, are the crank seals.

A quick drive by

This past weekend (yesterday) I replaced the oil seal in the left fork lower. I was pretty sure it was leaking when I bought the bike, as there was a mess of dirt soaked oil all over the left fork lower. I'd cleaned everything thoroughly shortly after bringing her home, and replaced the fork oil this past winter. There wasn't much oil in the left fork when I first drained it.
150 miles of back road riding and the left fork was leaking the new oil badly. I purchased two new seals for both forks a couple weeks ago and did the job yesterday. Only did the left leg for now, the right one isn't leaking at all.
No problem removing the wheel, pulling the fork out of the triple clamp, draining the fork oil (the 175ml I'd put in was down to 150ml), the fork oil was already nasty looking; gritty and rusty. No trouble splitting the tube from the lower, and the circlip and washer came right off from the top of the seal. I had a bit of trouble removing the chrome cap over the dust boot and the dust boot itself. They both ended up coming off together and I found the chrome cover rusted to the dust boot. I scrubbed the boot clean of the rust with some all purpose cleaned and a brass brush, and threw the chrome cap into some Evaporust while I worked on the rest of the job. I cleaned all the pieces in my parts washer and began to attempt to remove the seal.
I'd bought a slide hammer/seal puller kit from Harbor Freight last week and used it. I tried three different configurations of internal pullers included in the kit until I found the one that worked. I'd spent an hour just working to get the 50 year old seal off the lower without damaging anything. It appears that not only had oil originally come out of that fork, but water had gotten in and rusted the seal fast to the inside of the fork lower.
All went together easily, filled with another fresh 175ml of Bel-Ray 20W Fork Oil and a 15 mile ride afterwards showed no more leaking left fork!

The bike's road worthy, and I've been enjoying it to the tune of adding 400 miles to her. I'm now moving on to several smaller things that bother me, but don't stop the fun of riding the old classic.

I had an old utility trailer sitting behind the back yard shed since around 2007 that was sinking into the ground over time. I'd originally bought it as a kit from K-Mart and had it lengthened a bit so I could fit an '84 Suzuki RM250 onto it I raced for a couple years in the mid 80's. Without the luxury of a truck and knowing at some point in time this bike may need hauled somewhere, or I may decide to buy another project, I'm going to need a trailer.

I rebuilt this thing
 

It had a plywood deck and 2X4 stake body I removed, then disassembled the trailer and took the pieces off to be powder coated
 

Back from the powder coater
 

Re wired, new tires and wheels, a new hitch piece, and new spring shackle bushings. I also ended up replacing the safety chain, it was just too rusty. The wheel bearings were still in great shape. The grease in them looked like I'd just re packed them before storing the thing. I was able to salvage almost every piece of hardware.
 
 

I made a new deck from a 1/2" thick piece of severe weather plywood
 

I still had the old tire rail laying around in decent shape
 

A new stake body made from 2x4's I had in my garage attic
 

Good to go!
 
Yea, I may have been able to by a used trailer for what I spent to re build this one, but this was my trailer, and it was just sitting...
 

Just like putzin on these,old bikes… Great entertainment…. Next picture with a new project bike on it?
Sneezles61

On to one of the smaller things that bother me on the bike
 

The dent in the chrome cap on the right side fork. It's just a cosmetic piece over the dust boot, but it's originally on the bike, so I want it, just not this one. I'd halfheartedly been looking for one with no luck. I put the part number in saved searches on eBay and a couple weeks ago a set showed up from Sumo Rubber
 

This piece is an exact duplicate to the original, I can't see or feel any difference. I'd bought two new fork seals a few months ago and figured while I had things apart I'd replace the 50 year old seal even though it wasn't letting much oil past.
 

Bike on the jack, fork off and apart, easy enough
 
I thoroughly cleaned all the fork components in my parts washer, and blew them dry with compressed air. The lowers (once the seal was out and the race prepared) was rinsed a second time with Brake Parts Cleaner.

I'd bought a 2 pound Slide Hammer with a bunch of different style jaws from Harbor Freight. It worked fine to pull the fork seal out of the badly leaking left side several weeks ago.
 

This right side fork seal didn't want to give up its hold, and I broke the Slide Hammer working to pull the seal out. The two chrome pins that hold the jaws in place each had a small ball bearing in them to keep the pin from falling out. The ball bearing fell out of both pins. The seal didn't move at all before the tool broke. The inner spring came out and all the rubber pealed off the metal of the seal, but the metal didn't budge at all.
 

As stated above, the seal didn't want to give up its hold
 

A man's gotta' know his limitations. Once I broke the Slide Hammer, and began to butcher the seal, I decided to take the lower tube to the local Honda Shop for help. I couldn't watch. The mechanic placed the tube in a vice, pinching it tight at the flat section at the base where the axel goes through. Next he began to heat it with a torch, this is where I had to look away. He took a long pry bar and levered the remaining metal piece of the seal right out. No damage or marring of the tube. Whew.

Once back home I cleaned the race where the new seal was to sit with emory cloth and put the new seal in place. The socket I use to remove the primary sprocket is the perfect size to drive in the new seal. Everything went back together easily and went back on the bike with 175ml of fresh 20 weight Bel-Ray Fork Oil.
 

I should sleep better at night now...
 

It's been a bit since I've done any work on the bike, too busy enjoying riding. I've now got over 700 miles on the clock since I got her back on the road early this spring. The past several rides I'm getting a drip of 2-Stroke oil showing up on the rearward screw head on the bottom of the flywheel cover, sometimes enough it's dripping onto the garage floor. It's fresh 2-Stroke oil, still Yamalube 2S greenish blue.

Last November when I brought the bike home, and began tearing into things, I found quite a bit of oil within the flywheel side of the engine. Notice the oil in the pan sitting on the floor? That's how much oil was in there.
 

I'd been opening up the cover every 50 -75 miles or so to keep an eye on any more oil showing up. Yea, some was there, but not much. What was there was yellow, and on the lower side of the cover, with very little laying on the bottom. The oil had a bit of a burnt smell and I figure that's normal since it would have come from under the hot combustion chamber. I'd assumed the leak was very minor as the oil leaking out was minimal, and the idle and reving were normal for a 2-Stroke.

Yesterday, after a ride and letting her cool down, I figured it was time to replace that left side crank seal. Pulled the cover and removed the nut on the flywheel. My 18 volt Makita impact gun wouldn't loosen the nut. Started up my air compressor and zipped the nut off with the air powered impact gun holding the flywheel in position with a strap wrench. Inserted my Motion Pro Flywheel Puller and removed the flywheel, then the woodruff key.
 

Only a couple drops of oil hanging off the lowest point below the seal.
 

Two of the three screws holding the stator plate on were tough to remove, even with my JIS impact screwdriver. I was able to remove them without messing the heads of the screws, much. Everything looked clean, but had a film of oil all over.
 

The 50 year old weeping seal
 

I tied the stator back and began to remove the seal. I drilled a 3/32" hole and inserted a decking screw. With a crow bar I leveraged the seal out without difficulty.
 

 

I'd bought a seal kit off eBay and used the left side crank seal out of the kit. I lubed the inner area of the seal with 2-Stroke oil, left the outside diameter dry and wiped the seal seat in the engine clean and dry. I was able to get the seal started and straight with my thumbs, then used a block of wood and a hammer to gingerly work the seal in flush to the case as to not block off the hole in the case allowing oil onto the bearings.
 

I placed anti-seize on the threads of the three screws holding the stator plate on. Woodruff key back into position, flywheel back on after sanding a very rough piece of something on one of the magnets, flat washer in, lock washer in and the nut securely tightened. Cover back on and out for a rip around the neighborhood.