not sure whats happened with that seal but will have to get in and have a good clean up, i did try but the black gunk was pretty stubborn, i pulled out what i could of the old seal but now am thinking perhaps the metal plate of the seal is still there as i couldnt see the bearing, i was trying to get a screw in it to get purchase to pull out but when i saw it was metal i was trying to screw into i backed off thinking i ws trying to screw into the face of the cranks seal seat? if that makes sense? now i know i should be seeing bearing i can try again to remove whats left of the seal, i think the ooz is likely old black sealant

imgur.com/a/uuR6WHS

ok mclay
the old seal housing was still in there
have dug out and fitted new
that seal was annihalated
just waiting for back seal stuff to go off, points checker, woodruff key, tdc dial to arrive and will try to move on

There’s a little brown stone in there…..

Looks like the seal was fitted the wrong way round? The rubber seal lip needs to be on the inside, the steel housing on the outside.

On bikes like these, there is no real need to mess around using a dial gauge to time them. A cheap strobe light will do the job perfectly well, after the timing marks have been checked.

unsure, possible,
this is the seal i have in there now with the shown side in pic  facing the bearings and the smoother side (no lips) to the stator plate side
imgur.com/a/i6jWbym
 

Thats correct, should be fine.

"Yamfan wrote:  ......................On bikes like these, there is no real need to mess around using a dial gauge to time them. A cheap strobe light will do the job perfectly well, after the timing marks have been checked."

I can't help myself...  Yamfan so exactly how does one go about verifying the timing marks without a dial gauge in the first place? 

(Much easier and faster to use the dial gauge and a proper magneto points timing tool (or good meter) to adjust the points to precisely open at the correct time than using a strobe and blindly fiddling with the gap adjustment until giving up and calling it "close enough"...  at least in my experience)

imgur.com/a/eEEueKq

have this arriving soon
want to get points bob on as a good base to go from then i at least have the tools to keep them in range
then i can tear down over winter and replace that idler gear on kickstart maybe look at crank bearings
no play in crank though which is a good sign i feel
will also do a compression test soon with the new piston and rings in but the brief run i had with new piston felt much more tourqy

www.venhill.co.uk/timing-gauge-tool-14mm-vt22.html

I use one of those to check the stock strobe timing marks, then set the timing with a strobe light.

I worked in a bike shop when these bikes were new, and never had any issues with strobing the timing, after marks had been checked.

No real need to use a dial gauge on these engines, and on motors with points fitted the ease of being able to regularly check the timing with a light, tends to mean better running bikes.

wish i had seen that prior to grabbing a dial
anyways ..
some confusion on point setting with dial gauge
here it states with NKG B8ES plug point gap shpuld be .5-.6mm
however here it states
www.manualslib.com/manual/1056825/Yamaha....html?page=37#manual
maximum point gap .4mm
also it states 4 deedle revs prior TDC
havent go togrips with the dial yet however it does seem to whizz off and counting revelutions wouldbe difficult
i have using kick start so guess more accuracy just turnng stator by hand?
D