ok after a bit with point checker seems like the checker isnt registering the points closing at all?
checker seems fine (if you connect clips to eachother it reads closed)
eyeballing it would seem they are closing
i am right in thinking kill switch wont matter or should igintion be on here?
would this point to a possible issue with condenser, coil or wiring to either?
it may be i couldnt obtain a decent earth but tried several unpainted spots
havent got a multimeter to hand to meter out the coil or condenser
although i am getting spark but still occsional kick back on kickstart and still trouble starting it


D

Where did you find that points checker?.
I had one in the "60's identical & forgot to remove the batteries when cdi ignition arrived then it sat there until about 10 years ago & was such a mess inside i dumped it.
Need ignition 'on'.
But with ignition 'off' hence grounding everything, would that make it read as points closed?? someone? or am i confused.
If i'm right then why don't they read closed. I need correcting.

points checker on Ebay for a tenner,  pistine condtion too
no idea why not reading closed but i have a feeling its potetntially at the nub of my starting and kickback issues
could be a poor earth but i tried a few unpainted parts on the bike
checker reads closed if you touch the probes together
possibly dirty points?
they look to be closing
will try with ignition on and pull the back white stripe lead from ignition coil also as i believe  thats to kill switch the manual doesnt say anything about ignition being on or off

 

The plug gap wont make that much difference to timing. Point gap needs to be set to the gap shown in the manual.

All you really need to accurately set the timing on one of these bikes, is a vernier type timing tool, which I linked to in an earlier post, and a cigarette paper, to put between the points, to determine when they open.

If you intend to keep the bike, a cheap strobe light to check the timing, after you have confirmed the stock strobe timing marks as being accurate, with the vernier tool (which is not costly), is a good idea.#

Don't rely on a new condensor working 100%, if you have changed it and are still having starting issues, then carefully examine the points, and if there are any signs of burning fit a new condensor, genuine Yamaha if possible. If it hasn't been changed, then its something you need to do, as well as new points, and spark plug cap.

If its kicking back it must be sparking but maybe just sparked once & gave up.
But to kick back spark must have occurred in the wrong place unless you were just softly kicking it & it fired back.
Needs a reasonable kick to get through & running--well when you have spark.
Hope ya get it sorted soon.

thanks again!
yeah been softly kicking it since it developed a taste for both ankle and shin 
maybe that 
still need to figure why points aren't registering as closing 
will try it with ignition on/kill switch on later or maybe just a poor earth to tester 
felt like it was trying to run, half run for a very short time then bogged out on any sign of throttle 
thinking the sudden nature of the timing issue is relevant somehow 
rather than a gradual decline in running
D


 

thinking will, try replacing points next 
will try to get in close and maybe upload a pic of the state of them
have been holding off messing with points until i have the gap process nailed as its something of a mystery to me still currently, reading the dial guage being one thing i cant seem to fathom
D

Dont worry too much about dial gauges. You need to fit new points and condensor, and get the bike running properly before stressing over the timing.

You will need a flywheel puller, and feeler gauge to set points gap. Ideally also an impact tool of some sort to remove the flywheel nut.

Points and condenser usually don’t go bad I’ve got 50yr old points and condenser in most of my bikes if you do change them out use genuine Yamaha or Daikhi brand not cheap Chinese crap send pictures of what you got 

Technically the point gap is pretty much irrelevant.  The important thing is getting the points to just open when the piston is the correct distance before top dead center.  

If your head has angled spark plug holes, proper procedure is to remove the head when using the dial indicator.  (Vernier tool is useless in that scenario...  and vernier can easily cause damage to piston if you're not careful.)

I also agree with HT1kid that changing the points and condenser should be done with quality parts and that usually it isn't required.   I also have NEVER had to remove the flywheel to adjust the points, in fact you really can't because with flywheel off, the points cam is gone.

Dial indicator use is not too complex...  With gauge set so probe is parallel to cylinder bore (and preferably near center of piston) you "zero" the dial indicator to find TDC.  There needs to be some "preload" on the probe...  but you don't want it bottomed out.  Rotate the engine "backwards" (clockwise) by hand watching the needle.  (Ignore the manuals that tell you "revolutions" unless you have the exact gauge they do.)  What you need to do is figure out the scale of your dial gauge and use it to set the piston the precise distance before top dead center given in the specifications.  If you post a picture of your dial gauge, we can help.  NO KICKSTARTER USE.  You just rotate the engine gently by hand. 

Now that piston is in the correct spot, you adjust the point gap so they just open right there.  Just go through the window in the flywheel.  I like to rotate the engine a little further clockwise after adjustment and then back counter-clockwise while watching the dial gauge needle and points checker...  when needle shows piston is at the correct position, points checker should jump to "points open" at that moment. 

I disconnect points wire to ignition coil and connect points checker to wire that goes to points and a good ground. 

P.S.  If you had everything connected and key off, you should have been getting a constant "points closed" reading.  My guess is you didn't have meter wire grounded as you suspected.  Pictures of what you are doing would be very helpful.