thanks!
i will be checking points again later if i can get to it
will try to upload some more photos/video to show what's going on
so to confirm: if points aren't opening at the correct time how do i rectify that? or indeed can i rectify that? is it s case of new points and/or possible new cam on back of stator? or can i adjust point to open at 1.8mm BTDC on the point itself?
many thanks again
D
 

I just wrote a slow essay haha on the previous page then keep adding to it so now we're on page 5. So check page 4 if you haven't but sometimes i tend to over-complicate the instructions to just 'be sure'. Think i'll wait a bit. But bottom line is points adjusted so they 'just' move at 1.8mm. Hold on advance "if that flywheel".

yes.. sorry see it now, will update when i get a chance to look at it again later
am sure i will get there thanks to the time and efforts of all contributing and thanks again!

hopefully the post will go to help others facing similar mystery running issues 

 

can i adjust point to open at 1.8mm BTDC on the point itself?

Digger65-  Exactly!  You adjust the points until they just open at 1.8mm BTDC (+/-).  That's all there is to it.  Make sure advance mechanism is locked open as RT325 says. 

 

The firing point on these engines is determined by the points gap.

What's needed to check the timing is an easily repeatable way of determining the position of the piston, and a simple way of indicating when the points are just opening.

That's it, nothing else required.

imgur.com/daDXGu6
just working on the points closing issues first with stator off for easier access to points
possible points issue?
the tester was reading closed when both probes earthed to casing so know thats reading right and that my earth is good
i couldnt get it to read points closed for a long time whatsoever at any point on stator position , then a clean seemed to help a. little however if i press down on points a bit it reads fully closed if they close softly (dont ping back the are in the white as in not closed completely
other issue that is loads of fun is the idler gear on kickstart was damaged when it kicked back before so thats become tempermental also i can deal with that and a new idler gear however makes trying to start and diagnose a bit of a pain , is it safe to get a battery drill to the stator bolt and turn it over that way? save me having to bump when kick stops ratheting properly
hey ho.. zen and the art of whatnot

It would be best to replace points and condensor with genuine parts. Kickstart idler gear issues, are sometimes related to the kickstart gear on the back of the clutch, or the kickstart stop moving on the shaft. Its a good idea to strip and carefully inspect all the parts.

yes indeed
have found the idler gear
did check the cog behind cutch basket, couldnt see any obviuos movement, just the kick will sometimes not engage
was hoping i could just get it going first, confirm runs ok then i will do a deeper tear down probably over winter

If the kickstart sometimes fails to engage, you need to strip the clutch side and examine everything very carefully, as they can sometimes fail completely, and this will be costly to repair.

Digger, Didn't you have an issue with installing the kick start into the case? Very often an engagement issue is due to the clip #9 getting slightly bent or tweaked. It needs to have quite a bit of "drag" in the groove or starter will not engage. If you can push on the tang on the clip and rotate it in the groove fairly easily that's likely the problem . New clip will fix it. (they wear out too) www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/90468-26048-00