The frame & motor numbers on enduros should match.

all the Yamaha bikes I have has matching number engines and frames,this is the 1968 DT1s,1970 DT1,1970 RT1M and 1971 RT1B.

I did find out Yamaha did a lot of running changes on the 1968 DT1 through it's model year production. there is a lot of difference between my early 1968 DT1 vin # DT1-02xxx and the later 68 DT1 vin # DT1-100xx. the rear upper engine mount bolt being a 8 mm bolt and a 10 mm bolt on the later one,the spacers to that bolt is much smaller than the ones on the later bike. even the tool box is different. and if both bikes came with their original parts,I sure there is more differences to be found.

I have the original front forks to both bikes,the early bike has unique fork wipers and the later 1968 DT1 has the 69-70 fork wipers.

restoring one properly is nearly impossible and very very expensive. it is a difficult challenge.

they even came with a different kick start lever.

there is enough to document to write a novel and I am not joking here!

Enduronut is going to write a book about the 1968 DT1 and when he does,I very highly recommend picking it up if you are into 1968 DT1s.

even the 1969 DT1 has some running changes from early to late. 1969 models seem to be unappreciated compared to it's older brother.

H

Hey BD
Can you give more info on the fork wipers? You mention please?

Also I want to put my name down for a signed first edition DT1 book please enduro nut !!!!!!

Cheers
T1

these are the pix from the 2 sets of 1968 DT1 forks. the early fork wipers are flatter at the top and the later ones are more tapered. this only shows somewhat and when these pics were taken,I had a crappy camera.

this is a very early picture of my later 1968 DT1 when I was doing a test ride after I rebuilt the engine. it has a 21" front wheel from my RT1M on it. it later got more correct parts on it.

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these are from the early 1968 DT1,this was taken after the forks got new seals and the lower tubes were repainted.

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...or at least be within a number or two... I had a friend with a brand new Yamaha that had the engine and frame number mismatched by one number. The dealer said that happens sometimes?

But most of the time, the numbers match exactly.

~


Trying to verify the original paint-scheme,
for the painter.


Is this correct:

Headlight Bucket - Pearl White

Bucket Ears - Gray(grey)

Oil Tank - Gloss Black with - '250 ENDURO' Decal

Thanks


c.winterwoods

HELP
my name is Marc and i live in Belgium. I had the opportunity to buy a DT1(DT1-13235) standing still for many years.
As it is my first oldtimer bike, and i am not a mechanic, i asked my friend, who has experience with bikes, to get the thing riding.
Now there seems to be a problem with the ignition. It stops imediatly after starting. Another person also cannot fix or find the problem.
Maybe you guys have an idea ?

If it starts, then stops, that sounds more like a fuel issue. If you did not get any spark at all, that would be ignition. My first, and universal, suggestion for these old bikes is to clean the carb. Then do it again. Then once more.

We have some articles on how to do it right, but it involves complete disassembly, and sometimes replacing parts.

Pretty bike.

Hi

Your '68 looks very complete .....

My suggestion would be to replace the condensor as I had a similar issue although it would start but cut out after a short while ...
Why not post a bit more about how you came to purchase the bike with more photos ... I like the 75 tag on the front fork?

Cheers
T1

as is often the case it's easier for us to help diagnose if your able to post a video with good audio--even just the audio on its own would help. If it starts then stops--then does the same again repeatedly you realy need to know if the spark is disappearing briefly. Had a thing at work made up to watch the spark through a clear tube where it jumped a gap on the plug lead before the plug. To be honest i'm not sure i ever used it but sounded like a good idea at the time. Check the usual things like points & plug cap or push the lead on minus the cap just to try. Points need a reasonable gap too as the fibre heal wears over time & points close down. In saying all that--i'd pull out the side mounted main jet in the carb & see if the fuel flows constantly, plus check the jet in 'that' holder for blockage. If all else fails then dismantle the carb & go through it carefully & look closely at the choke jet hidden deep down the hole on the inner edge of the bowl, prod it with something small or squirt some crc through with the crc long nozzle just to see if it flows. If it's blocked then the choke only ends up opening an airway which makes things worse for cold starting. Ok, rant over--have a good day. ps, the choke jet--non removable--is right at the bottom of the hole.