Did it run before you rebuilt it ? How is the heal on the points also guessing if they are the incorrect points? 

I saw it run but only for a bit before I purchased it. Revved it up for a tiny bit and then it died. Bought it for cheap, took it home and it wouldn't run. Popped off a little but never ran after that first time. again only thing I can think of is if the crank is just still bent?

www.youtube.com/shorts/lJo64sfP5Sc

Can't see the points at all so not sure what that shows.

Did you set point gap with point rubbing block on high spot of cam? That's a separate adjustment on that model and is done first.

It was meant to show if there was too much space during the rotation of that shaft, thus hinting at the crank being bent. My bad for not explaining well. Yes I set the point gap beforehand, then went for the timing.

Without looking 'i think i remember' 50 years ago that there's two screws or 4 screws holding the face of the advancer together.So If those screws were out & the weights off then i'm thinking the points cam can be 180'd & weights engaged so then you have a problem. But ok if not been apart then forget about that plan. Do you think its likely the armature pushed the crank key out behing & its on the taper but misaligned. Run out of sensible ideas realy, without pics & video's. In a day of stupid thoughts is it likely you're turning the motor the wrong way--or something.

i'm a page behind with my post
Something looks very bent--crank, or is the advancer not seated. Has a locating tang i think. If the cranks bent out of line then the brushes will be doing a merry dance as it spins. If its as bad as it looks then brush bounce should be easy to see if the comutator is ok & not rediculously worn out of round.
One more random thought. Is it a home-made crank key that's too tall & cocking the armature & making it gyrate. I slowed the video down to .25 speed & cam is following around the outside of the hole it sits through. I know it's a cam but looking past where the cam shape finishes to the edge which should be pretty true spining.-& it aint. If its the crank bent then you'll have to go 'in'--only way. & if it moved on the crank pin--then why--as are a very tight press fit.

Thank you all for the thoughts/ideas/advice. Giving up for the night with it and will take a look tomorrow with a clear head, will probably take that side all apart and see if anything is off. Per usual will update!

At least in this downtime I've been able to make my front and rear brakes just around perfect, went through and cleaned out all the electronics, among just a bunch of cosmetics. It's close, sooooooo close to running

Did you rebuild the crank yourself. How was it trued up to spin true. Sorry, i'm confusing myself as to which story i'm on, have ta read back.

Yes I did it by myself, had to take the engine apart 3 times now and put it back together due to it being not true. Went out and picked up a dial indicator and make a trueing system out of 2 nails I made sure were level on the side of a workbench. Image #4 in this link  imgur.com/a/yX0BubH  

It was out of wack and I got it down to what I thought was pretty little movement anywhere on it... then again this was all done on 2 nails, not some fancy machine or anything. 

Due to the fact I've torn the engine apart 3 times due to this crank just leads me to believe its something messed up with the crank yet again, causing the dent that would usually cause the gap in the points to be thrown off, thus changing the timing wayyyy off to where I cant even adjust it. I really hope I'm wrong as at this point splitting the cases is getting pretty old and becoming a chore haha. 

That's clever. I know which post i'm on now & was impressed with that method earlier back a page or so. Only thing 'is' the further out you get the more misalignment will show on the gauge. I do it between centers in the lathe unless the mag end thread is bent--which won't be in your case having no thread. If you put deep curves in long nails to hold the crank & away from the bench & set the nails close to the crank webs then fit the spacer from the crank gear by slid it on to run your gauge out near the end. You'll get a good idea of how it is that way. The other end is the problem but might get a good indication setting the gauge at the same angle as the taper. Steel ruller across the webs gets it close to start with. You've got some trick ideas so i'm sure the results will come.