Thank y'all for the info, I was confused why it leaned over so much but the bend looked almost deliberate/factory. I'll see if I can heat up that metal and bend it back straight.

I'll check the voltage regulator, thanks for the advice, Hopefully I can just adjust it!

Stand lug on the frame or footrest is likely bent as well as the obvious stand bend. You'll know when you've straightened the stand. Great model 'that one' & really enjoyed mine.

Making sure the battery isn't bad before I start messing with the regulator, the reason is cause the battery wont charge past like a max of 11.90v on its own. While hooked up with jumpers to my truck it can get to 13.5v but as soon as you take them off it drains down to 11.90v soooo maybe the battery is just faulty? I took it to AutoZone, they tested it and said it was ok but i told them to put it on the trickle charger and I'll come pick it up in a couple of hours.

I did buy like the cheapest Walmart battery with 6amp vs 7 that the factory recommends. On a decently tight budget but might have to return this one and go with a proper battery. While running it charges at about 10.5v and jumps around randmonly with rpms

www.youtube.com/shorts/sCkRTDkYdtk

Should be charging up around 14 volts above idle when it cuts in. Maybe a little higher in revs but 3000rpm would be charging as hard as its set to go. You can hear it cut in & charge as it feels like it put the brake on the motor--which it does sort of with an electrical break. More noticeable on the forst model AT1 electric piston port motor but same realy & just not as noticeable because the DT125E is a bit more lively. You can watch the cutout "cut in" with the lid off the Reg. You can also put a bit of finger upwards pressure under the charging thingy & watch the voltage go up & motor struggle more. That only works if its charging in the first place, which i guess its not looking at the video. I'll go read the story fully.

You don't have the leads plugged into your meter correctly.

Black wire (ground or negative post of bike battery) goes into lowest "COM" port and Red wire (positive battery terminal) goes into center "V ohm mA" port where you currently have black wire.

Meter might not be showing correct numbers since it's not connected the way it's supposed to be? (if nothing else, with red to + terminal, voltage will not be negative 10.5 volts)

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