What you're doing won't test the decomp valve for leaks from cylinder to exhaust port. Pressure will be the same on both sides so even if valve was wide open it won't affect leak rate..

If decomp valve is leaking to outside, that will be a problem... soapy water will identify.

Holds at 5 psi indefinitely, cork finally popped out of intake. Vacuum pump broke which sucks :-O so I will pick this test back up after I get a new one.

Thanks for all the help and advice.

Hi happy Friday
I made progress this week assembling engine. Took a break to replace some worn parts like clutch lever which I didn’t feel good about sticking into new needle bearing and seal. Clutch new from premeltdown refurbishment so hopefully I have come close to “like new” condition and performance, we shall see. Got engine mounted up, waiting on non-incendiary #180 main jet before I assemble and install carb. So in meantime I will hook up cable and wires and have drinks and admire my work and hope it all doesn’t blow up!

Autolube works great and I will bleed and adjust it. What do the experts think about 32:1 premix for first gallon? Beneficial ?

msavitt you're doing a great job.
I think a bit of pre-mix is a good idea, those with far more experience will chime in for sure.
Look forward to seeing it run

It's almost there!

My opinion (which is worth what you're paying for it) is that using premix for the initial startup, heat cycles and first few easy, short shakedown runs doesn't hurt the breakin process, may be cheap insurance if something went ary with the injection system during initial startups and offers a sense of peace, especially after experiencing a catastrophic failure.

Typically I start with a gallon of premix in the tank then add straight gas to it after the initial, easy runs to dilute the premix and sorta "wean" the engine off the premix. Checking the autolube for adjustment at that point to assure nothing changed (like a cable that wasn't fully seated initially).

One important point I've learned from the experts on this forum is that the premix will create a LEANER fuel/air mixture because part of the liquid being metered by the carb is actually oil and not fuel. Without going into the change in specific gravity and viscosity of the fuel when mixed with oil (not that I could by any stretch!) a simple volumetric calculation would show that about 3% of your liquid is now oil and not combustible fuel.

So, about 3% lean.

All this to say keep an eye on your plug color and your engine temp. Especially when you get to the end of the breakin period and are pushing your new engine hard. By then you should be running on straight gas in the tank.

I feel I'm speaking for other forum members here when I say we don't want you to experience another melt down!

Thanks gentlemen for input on premix, I am going to do first gallon at 32:1 in conjunction with autolube. Regarding autolube, is output 9ml with throttle wheel wide open at 200 turns? While I await main jet I thought I would double check this to leave no stone unturned.

A couple of things I learned in final assembly I thought I would share, if these are “no shit Sherlock” then just ignore me!

1. Impact wrench to loosen primary, clutch and sprocket nuts fine in my opinion but a bad way to tighten because I think it erodes fine threads. So I used drive chain looped around drive sprocket pinned together with a high strength bolt to create a loop that I put over the larger rear engine mount bolt. Worked superbly

2. When adjusting the shifter, the manual calls for centering the ratchet pawl with respect to shift drum pins, which is easy to say but much harder to do with any precision. So with clutch side up on bench - after replacing shift pawl ratchet thibgamajig, I installed shift lever and put a tape measure beneath it which amplified the motion and allowed me to split the slack evenly with adjustment screw before tightening it and crimping tab back with a pliers. Shifts really nice up and down on bench.

Hope I haven’t missed anything so this doesn’t blow up again! Found a stash of NGK B9ES plugs on eBay, this time around I will have proper jetting and plug, fingers crossed it doesn’t blow up or die on me when I “go for it” on Santiago Peak so I can move onto next one, I am addicted!!

Listen very carefully to that motor.  You will get warning if it is pinging, enough to avoid engine damage, but there is no flashing red light. 

There are a lot of counterfeit NGK's on ebay.  I would avoid purchasing those and many other parts on sites like ebay and amazon.  Ebay is a great source for used parts but I don't trust them for much other than that.  You can get real NGK's from places like RMATVMC with a legit supply chain and have nothing to worry about.

Sage advice turbofan, especially given I was duped on crank seals premeltdown. Is there a way to ID counterfeit plugs?

Counterfeit NGK has been discussed here several times...  there are many websites with pages and videos on the topic.

Here's one:  www.ngk-sparkplugs.jp/english/techinfo/fake/index.html

Thanks Mark
i am assuming mine are bogus
Can you recommend closest match that hasn't been target of counterfeiting?
thanks again