That would be a B9EG.  These appear to be readily available:

www.ngk.com/ngk-3530-b9eg-racing-plug

www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/ngk-g-rated-sparkplug-p

I run the BR9EG.  Resistor plug, I know.  Doesn't seem to be a problem at all to have a resistor cap and resistor plug.  I've been running two strokes like that for decades.

Hi DT Tim,

Please know that I am a novice when it comes to the intricacies of these old 2 strokes, so lean on experts on this site. 

When I split the cases I found the transmission shaft, gears and bearings to be super clean - almost perfect - and tight. However I replaced a few parts of the shift and clutch release mechanism

the needle bearing which is lowest part of case and "blind" and therefore a place for crud to accumulate. My clutch release shaft was scored so I found a NOS for $20 (good deal!?) and longer pushrod that was worn $8 NOS and new needle bearing, washer, seal from partzilla. Needle bearing removal went well, but a bit harrowing:  I heated case adjacent to it with a torch to warm aluminum and then after not being able to "pull" it with a variety of blind contraptions I chose to carefully fracture it from OD inward with very small tapered punches and chisels. When it was out I had a very small burr / depression at the leading edge where the bearing enters but doesn't live that I carefully smoothed with a fine round file. I also replaced shift ratchet pawl and shift drum end cap, applying a light coat of Yamalube 4 for good measure. 
- main bearings were questionable post meltdown, the thought being that if I had piston ring fragments coming out silencer that I should replace main bearings which I did. Removing was easy - I just pounded them out with a bearing driver. After this and removing clutch release needle bearing and cleaning everything really well I put cases in oven warming to 250F, vs 200F, the thought being I wanted more expansion per inch of diameter for needle bearing which I would hopefully slide in first, then the main bearing die same half at which time the case would still be at or above 200F.  Needle went in a few mm by hand, the rest of the way with a socket I identified in advance as the perfect size driver with a couple of very light taps. Main slipped in by hand, too easy. Then I retrieved the other case and dropped main in too. 

I used yamabond4 on case split line. Also lightly coated both sides of cylinder base gasket with same when jug and piston went on. On intake I did same and right or wrong I chose to use a gasket on both sides of reed block because I felt that the molded rubber beads designed to create a seal were too limp to reliably seal IMO. 

lastly I replaced transmission output seal, tach drive o-ring & cable seal, shift detent drum seal, but didn't change kickstart seal since I had replaced it along with clutch premeltdown. 

now I await ups man with my #180 main jet and proper spark plug, then moment of truth!

love to see some of your pics and hope some of this was useful 

TurboDan thanks for the line on the spark plugs

Dear expertrs
I have set static timing with dial indicator per manual, 2.9mm or 0.114" BTDC with dial gauge
When I hopefully get this started and put a strobe light on this, what should I expect to see with a properly working CDI ignition?  e.g. marks line up at idle, then depart as timing advances with increased RPM to a maximum of XX degrees BTDC?
Thank you for sharing with me,
Martin
 

I would expect you "might" see the timing slightly retarded at idle but by 2000 RPM should be at 2.9mm and should never advance past that. 

thank you MarkT

Dear experts - my graduated cylinder arrived from Amazon and I am going to check oil pump output before hopefully firing this old gal up later tonight, assuming USPS brings carb parts.

Regarding oil output volume at 200 rotations at "full throttle"....does full throttle mean the pump wheel pegged in the full throttle location, or a properly set up pump (e.g. marks aligned) turned 200 turns with throttle grip pegged?  I ask because there is way more rotation left in in the pump wheel with the latter that impacts the reading.

Please adivse and as always thank you

Martin

Once the max pump stroke is reached (end of the ramp)  then output should not increase with additional rotation.

Thank you
i ran this test twice, each time with 5.5ml output at 200 rotations, which is well below the 8.8ml lower limit. Could this shortfall be an adjustment issue (eg shims) or do I need to rebuild?
please advise and thank you 

  Thank you
i ran this test twice, each time with 5.5ml output at 200 rotations, which is well below the 8.8ml lower limit. Could this shortfall be an adjustment issue (eg shims) or do I need to rebuild?
please advise and thank you