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Mikes XS 650 clutch actuator - Problem and looking for advice
- Franjo
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Mikes XS 650 clutch actuator - Problem and looking for advice was created by Franjo
Hi there,
I heard that some of you successfully mounted that XS 650 actuator into RT/DT models. Today I tried it, but failed. The actuator touches the chain. The whole systems is a few mm higher than the original one. Now I wonder what went wrong. I don't see many chances to save the cover. Has anyone an idea?
Here are some pictures:
Mikes XS 650 actuator kit
milled out cover with threads for worm drive
new worm drive mounted
worm drive from the other side
at this points the chain touches the actuator lever
It would be great if somebody could give me an advice what went wrong or how he did it.
With kind regards
Franjo
I heard that some of you successfully mounted that XS 650 actuator into RT/DT models. Today I tried it, but failed. The actuator touches the chain. The whole systems is a few mm higher than the original one. Now I wonder what went wrong. I don't see many chances to save the cover. Has anyone an idea?
Here are some pictures:
Mikes XS 650 actuator kit
milled out cover with threads for worm drive
new worm drive mounted
worm drive from the other side
at this points the chain touches the actuator lever
It would be great if somebody could give me an advice what went wrong or how he did it.
With kind regards
Franjo
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- Franjo
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Replied by Franjo on topic Mikes XS 650 clutch actuator - Problem and looking for advice
Thanks Mauser,
but you used a different unit. Other lever and worm gear drive. I couldn't use the old holes. Mine is from Mikes XS650. It was talked about here sometime ago.
but you used a different unit. Other lever and worm gear drive. I couldn't use the old holes. Mine is from Mikes XS650. It was talked about here sometime ago.
21 Jun 2021 07:58
#2
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- 1971DT250
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Replied by 1971DT250 on topic Mikes XS 650 clutch actuator - Problem and looking for advice
The one that Mauser used has the offset arm like the Enduro.
The hours spent riding my Enduros is not deducted from my life span.
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- MarkT
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Replied by MarkT on topic Mikes XS 650 clutch actuator - Problem and looking for advice
I think there may be more than one "XS650" actuator design? Maybe different year models? I haven't checked recently but somehow I remember someone saying something like that.
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
21 Jun 2021 18:21
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- Franjo
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Replied by Franjo on topic Mikes XS 650 clutch actuator - Problem and looking for advice
Yeah Mark,
that's why I ordered the item directly from Mike. Could get it here in Germany for half the price. Mike has only this one on his homepage. The sticker on it says that it comes originally from Taiwan. But naturally it could be that the design was changed.
But I have some ideas to get little more space. There are a few things that have impact on the 'working height' and distance to the chain. Maybe at least I have have to seperate from my beloved o-ring-chain.
I will keep you updated.
Regards
Franjo
that's why I ordered the item directly from Mike. Could get it here in Germany for half the price. Mike has only this one on his homepage. The sticker on it says that it comes originally from Taiwan. But naturally it could be that the design was changed.
But I have some ideas to get little more space. There are a few things that have impact on the 'working height' and distance to the chain. Maybe at least I have have to seperate from my beloved o-ring-chain.
I will keep you updated.
Regards
Franjo
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- redtail828
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Replied by redtail828 on topic Mikes XS 650 clutch actuator - Problem and looking for advice
Hey Franjo here is a link to where i posted a half-decent attempt at documenting my swap
www.yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forums/...-conversion?start=10
I think your problem is that you need to cut the arm off of the screw part and attach the stock one onto the new screw. If you dont have TIG capabilities I would take it to a welding shop and have them cut the tack welds off both the stock and new actuator arms to separate them from the screw and then weld the stock arm onto the new screw so it clears the chain. Attached are pictures of the frankensteined part, a shiny screw with the beat up old stock arm.
Hope this helps
RedTail
www.yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forums/...-conversion?start=10
I think your problem is that you need to cut the arm off of the screw part and attach the stock one onto the new screw. If you dont have TIG capabilities I would take it to a welding shop and have them cut the tack welds off both the stock and new actuator arms to separate them from the screw and then weld the stock arm onto the new screw so it clears the chain. Attached are pictures of the frankensteined part, a shiny screw with the beat up old stock arm.
Hope this helps
RedTail
22 Jun 2021 06:34
#6
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- Franjo
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Replied by Franjo on topic Mikes XS 650 clutch actuator - Problem and looking for advice
Hi,
thank you Red Tail! Maybe this would work. But I’ve no Tig welder.
I finally fixed it in another way. But it was not simple. Maybe someone is interested to fit this actuator from Mike’s XS650 I show here how I did it without welding the old lever to the new actuator.
Step 1
The free length of the clutch cable (difference between cable housing and cable) has influence how far the “worm gear screw” is out of the “worm gear nut” in closed position. In my case the worm gear was already out for about 2mm when I hung in the cable in longest position of the handlebar adjuster (adjuster totally in). To get my “screw” seated with totally extended clutch cable I had to rotate the “worm nut” in the cover a few degrees. To have some material left for the new threads I had to make an elongated hole in one side of the “worm nut”.
elongated hole
"worm gear nut" in new position
Now the “worm gear screw” was seated in the “nut” after the cable was hung in. But the lever still hit my o-ring-chain.
Step 2
I made me little special tool which fixes the “worm gear nut” in my lathe. So I was able to mill the fixing plate from 5mm down to 3,5mm.
"worm gear nut" fixed in tool for lathe
"warm gear nut" with plate now 3,5mm instead of 5mm
But the lever still hit the chain very slightly. I think if you use a normal chain without o-rings it could clear at that point. So I used shims beyond the case screws to space the cover 1,5mm apart from the engine (you have to look twice to see that).
cover shimed out 1,5mm
Other modifications:
cut and bend the lever from the new actuator
minor Dremel modifications to the small adjuster cover
shorten the new adjuster screw 4mm
two 4mm washers under the small adjuster cover screws to clear the adjuster nut under the cover
And now it works!
With kind regards
Franjo
thank you Red Tail! Maybe this would work. But I’ve no Tig welder.
I finally fixed it in another way. But it was not simple. Maybe someone is interested to fit this actuator from Mike’s XS650 I show here how I did it without welding the old lever to the new actuator.
Step 1
The free length of the clutch cable (difference between cable housing and cable) has influence how far the “worm gear screw” is out of the “worm gear nut” in closed position. In my case the worm gear was already out for about 2mm when I hung in the cable in longest position of the handlebar adjuster (adjuster totally in). To get my “screw” seated with totally extended clutch cable I had to rotate the “worm nut” in the cover a few degrees. To have some material left for the new threads I had to make an elongated hole in one side of the “worm nut”.
elongated hole
"worm gear nut" in new position
Now the “worm gear screw” was seated in the “nut” after the cable was hung in. But the lever still hit my o-ring-chain.
Step 2
I made me little special tool which fixes the “worm gear nut” in my lathe. So I was able to mill the fixing plate from 5mm down to 3,5mm.
"worm gear nut" fixed in tool for lathe
"warm gear nut" with plate now 3,5mm instead of 5mm
But the lever still hit the chain very slightly. I think if you use a normal chain without o-rings it could clear at that point. So I used shims beyond the case screws to space the cover 1,5mm apart from the engine (you have to look twice to see that).
cover shimed out 1,5mm
Other modifications:
cut and bend the lever from the new actuator
minor Dremel modifications to the small adjuster cover
shorten the new adjuster screw 4mm
two 4mm washers under the small adjuster cover screws to clear the adjuster nut under the cover
And now it works!
With kind regards
Franjo
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- redtail828
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Replied by redtail828 on topic Mikes XS 650 clutch actuator - Problem and looking for advice
Nice! I have yet to get my little exterior cover to fit properly, just need to spend some time grinding to let it sit flush with the new actuator sticking out.
22 Jun 2021 08:25
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- Hammer
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Replied by Hammer on topic Mikes XS 650 clutch actuator - Problem and looking for advice
Franjo,
In my thread, I used an actuator from a Yamaha R5 350cc street bike, it works out better, IMHO. It wasn't my original idea, that belongs to a much more knowledgeable member of this forum than I, but mines been working without problem since 2013 (so far...). I also didn't need the shims to space it out.
Hammer
In my thread, I used an actuator from a Yamaha R5 350cc street bike, it works out better, IMHO. It wasn't my original idea, that belongs to a much more knowledgeable member of this forum than I, but mines been working without problem since 2013 (so far...). I also didn't need the shims to space it out.
Hammer
Who, More than Self, His Country Loved.
23 Jun 2021 01:26
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- RT325
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Replied by RT325 on topic Mikes XS 650 clutch actuator - Problem and looking for advice
No sure if relevant now, but the ideal position to mount it is vertical & if you get too far from there you'll need to start the arm on a different spiral. Arm has to start as far down as possible to be as far back in the actuator as you can get. Easier said than done no doubt when you need to secure it around from vertical. On my one i did 20 years ago using an RD350 actuator i decided to insert it from the outside. Not sure why now as sits the little cover out about 5mm & the cover retains the actuator which makes it difficult to adjust although don't think i've ever needed to luckily. Works perfect as all those 4 start actuators do. With yours i guess you're limited to where you can position it.
23 Jun 2021 03:08
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