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Makotosun

Mikes XS 650 clutch actuator - Problem and looking for advice

  • Franjo
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Hi there,
I heard that some of you successfully mounted that XS 650 actuator into RT/DT models. Today I tried it, but failed. The actuator touches the chain. The whole systems is a few mm higher than the original one. Now I wonder what went wrong. I don't see many chances to save the cover. Has anyone an idea?
Here are some pictures:
 
Mikes XS 650 actuator kit

 
milled out cover with threads for worm drive

 
new worm drive mounted

 
worm drive from the other side

 
at this points the chain touches the actuator lever

It would be great if somebody could give me an advice what went wrong or how he did it.

With kind regards
Franjo
 
Last edit: 21 Jun 2021 07:02 by Franjo.
21 Jun 2021 06:59 #1

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  • Franjo
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Thanks Mauser,
but you used a different unit. Other lever and worm gear drive. I couldn't use the old holes. Mine is from Mikes XS650. It was talked about here sometime ago.
21 Jun 2021 07:58 #2

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The one that Mauser used has the offset arm like the Enduro.
 
The hours spent riding my Enduros is not deducted from my life span.
Last edit: 21 Jun 2021 11:06 by 1971DT250.
21 Jun 2021 11:04 #3

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I think there may be more than one "XS650" actuator design?  Maybe different year models?  I haven't checked recently but somehow I remember someone saying something like that.
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
21 Jun 2021 18:21 #4

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  • Franjo
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Yeah Mark,
that's why I ordered the item directly from Mike. Could get it here in Germany for half the price. Mike has only this one on his homepage. The sticker on it says that it comes originally from Taiwan. But naturally it could be that the design was changed.
But I have some ideas to get little more space. There are a few things that have impact on the 'working height' and distance to the chain. Maybe at least I have have to seperate from my beloved o-ring-chain.
I will keep you updated.
Regards
Franjo
Last edit: 22 Jun 2021 00:40 by Franjo.
22 Jun 2021 00:39 #5

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Hey Franjo here is a link to where i posted a half-decent attempt at documenting my swap 

www.yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forums/...-conversion?start=10

I think your problem is that you need to cut the arm off of the screw part and attach the stock one onto the new screw. If you dont have TIG capabilities I would take it to a welding shop and have them cut the tack welds off both the stock and new actuator arms to separate them from the screw and then weld the stock arm onto the new screw so it clears the chain. Attached are pictures of the frankensteined part, a shiny screw with the beat up old stock arm.

Hope this helps

RedTail
22 Jun 2021 06:34 #6

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  • Franjo
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Hi,
thank you Red Tail! Maybe this would work. But I’ve no Tig welder.
I finally fixed it in another way. But it was not simple. Maybe someone is interested to fit this actuator from Mike’s XS650 I show here how I did it without welding the old lever to the new actuator.
Step 1
The free length of the clutch cable (difference between cable housing and cable) has influence how far the “worm gear screw” is out of the “worm gear nut” in closed position. In my case the worm gear was already out for about 2mm when I hung in the cable in longest position of the handlebar adjuster (adjuster totally in).  To get my “screw” seated with totally extended clutch cable I had to rotate the “worm nut” in the cover a few degrees. To have some material left for the new threads I had to make an elongated hole in one side of the “worm nut”.

 
elongated hole

 
"worm gear nut" in new position
Now  the “worm gear screw” was seated in the “nut” after the cable was hung in. But the lever still hit my o-ring-chain.
Step 2
I made me little special tool which fixes the “worm gear nut” in my lathe. So I was able to mill the fixing plate from 5mm down to 3,5mm.
 
"worm gear nut" fixed in tool for lathe

 
"warm gear nut" with plate now 3,5mm instead of 5mm

But the lever still hit the chain very  slightly. I think if you use a normal chain without o-rings it could clear at that point. So I used shims beyond the case screws to space the cover 1,5mm apart from the engine  (you have to look twice to see that).

 
cover shimed out 1,5mm
Other modifications:
cut and bend the lever from the new actuator
minor Dremel modifications to the small adjuster cover
shorten the new adjuster screw 4mm
two 4mm washers under the small adjuster cover screws to clear the adjuster nut under the cover
And now it works!
With kind regards
Franjo
Last edit: 22 Jun 2021 08:01 by Franjo.
22 Jun 2021 07:56 #7

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Nice! I have yet to get my little exterior cover to fit properly, just need to spend some time grinding to let it sit flush with the new actuator sticking out.
22 Jun 2021 08:25 #8

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Franjo,

In my thread, I used an actuator from a Yamaha R5 350cc street bike, it works out better, IMHO.  It wasn't my original idea, that belongs to a much more knowledgeable member of this forum than I, but mines been working without problem since 2013 (so far...).  I also didn't need the shims to space it out.

Hammer
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23 Jun 2021 01:26 #9

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No sure if relevant now, but the ideal position to mount it is vertical & if you get too far from there you'll need to start the arm on a different spiral. Arm has to start as far down as possible to be as far back in the actuator as you can get.  Easier said than done no doubt when you need to secure it around from vertical. On my one i did 20 years ago using an RD350 actuator i decided to insert it from the outside. Not sure why now as sits the little cover out about 5mm & the cover retains the actuator which makes it difficult to adjust although don't think i've ever needed to luckily. Works perfect as all those 4 start actuators do. With yours i guess you're limited to where you can position it.
23 Jun 2021 03:08 #10

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