Can someone help me out here with spark. I bought an Emgo coil, pic below that I was told would work on my DT1 The motor is in the bike with no other wiring hooked up, just what's also pictured below. I was told to take the thin black that comes out the case to coil and when I do, no spark. That bare wire will arc to metal when kicking but nothing when ran to post on coil or behind mounting bolt. Am I using the wrong wire and should be using one on stator harness or the other black pigtail??

If that's a black i can see in the loom it'd be that one to use. But be nice to know where the other originates from if it's putting out voltage. Could be from the same source & if so then either will work. So when you know 'that' then see if the points are registering open & closed which is a very minute but definite change in needle on an analogue ohms meter set at the lowest resistance. Just eyeball the points opening spot & move the flywheel back & forth the very small amount to go from just opening to just closed. If no change the give points a scratch & try again. Coil looks good, but even a bad one looks good. In saying that i've never had a bad new one although looks like the say it does a wide range of types of ignition cdi etc, but i've used a cdi plug coil with no problem on my old rat bike DT-RT things. How does your new one test for ohms on the input side & plug lead side.

In the above pic far left wire that's cut is black, middle pigtail is also black and then of course the one in the stator loom that is black. Which should I be working with? Also, that goes up to post on coil or to a mounting bolt? Good question on ohm reading as my tester crapped out tonight when trying to answer that ? for myself. Will be back at it tomorrow. If I could get the bike to at least run I'd gain some momentum on it but it's in danger of getting pushed aside right now.

We have spark! Coil tested proper, cut clean tips on wires and did proper bullet connectors, filed and cleaned points, made sure they were opening and closing. Haven't got to timing ye. She didn't start though not even on starter fluid, pulled carb and it's real bad but could come back to life. Idle get is stripped, floats looked good along with needle/seat, slide and main was crispy but got it cleared. Still didn't get anything but a few pops. Also have no air filter on but it's progress! I ended up using the black wire on harness not the little black 'convenience' wire.

Ok, was gonna say go to the top of the class but not quite there yet. There's a very slight possibility that the condenser is faulty or not connected. Spark should be fairly concentrated, not a 'flash' as such. First i'd be checking the crank key that locates the flywheel in the right place for timing. If not tight enough they eat keys for breakfast. It would need to have happened while it was running & must read back as not sure if you bought it in a non running state in which case could've happened previously. Engine start should get some action but not if the flywheel key is toast. you could get a backfire & blow the exhaust off the cylinder or push the mag side crank seal out, but that's extreme case.

Damn RT325 I really wanted to be top of the class! But I also wanna keep my wife and had to get home. Time for some more detailed work, namely flywheel off. I think I have the puller and I'm curious about the key too. Bike was very non running when I got it, 70 bottom end on 68 top end. I know the PO mounted the stator cuz the bolts are allens but who knows how skilled he was. Not enough to know the importance of a 68 DT1 obviously. Back at her tomorrow! Excited.

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