yeah It'd be easy to cut some puchs out of round stock poly or something, I am wondering if I can go even cheaper by using hydraulic hose. it could be a big fail...

thanks for the info, its interesting the Yzs didnt bother I guess they were built tough enough to handle shock loads no dramas, I guess they probably also reasoned that the engines were regularly torn down and replacing gearsets, sprockets and chains was a who cares kinda thing!

Please repost the images of this rebuild.
Tnx.

This thread merits an update. I am about to embark on the cushion dampers on my TY175C’s clutch which has close to 4mm of radial free play. Digging around I’ve found some resources to share. Not too sure the path I’ll take, but it seems entirely doable.
The only thing I am not yet sure of is which “rubber” dampers to procure. I’ll disassemble the rivets soon to see what they look like.
I’ve also heard one can buy an after market clutch and swap out and add the Yamaha’s primary
drive section on it. Only concern here is potential for mounting hardware to interfere with other components.
There is a Banshee shop nearby that mods clutches and has their version of these, so that’ll be my first place to look.
From the Utube vids, mostly from Asia, it seems Yamaha sells OEM repair kits for this. I was able to spy on the part numbers. Rivets ( 90261-05006 Partzilla stocks these). The “rubber” dampers (4Y2-16155-00 haven’t found these yet). These “rubbers” may be the exact ones available below.
There is an eBay seller in the UK which rebuilds the damper system. His name is Chris Stevens. Although supper expensive!
Also, diymotofix.com has a great tutorial.
Yambits, Sumorubber and HVCcycle normally stock the “rubbers”
That’s what I’ve discovered so far. Please add any information you may have too.

Top photo is what I used.

My Yamaha 175 (top photo for early 100 125 175 cet dt ag t’y 175 likely all the same but check yours) had the hollow round dampers in it originally like the second and third pictures. These break down and that’s how you end up with so much play.

The solid pucks are much better as there is a damper on the rear wheel anyway. It’s been now several years no problems with the pucks.

Just a note when peening solid rivets you want to près them ideally. If not pressing you need the two pieces clamped together. A heavy iron backer on the head of the rivet and you want to hit the rivet hard 3-4 times not soft 10-20x as you work harden it as it compresses you want most of the peening to be done in first few hits otherwise it gets harder to close them up. You probably only want a few mm protruding above the surface not too long. Can’t remember the specs but aviation mechanics are the place to get spare rivets if you mess up.

Thank you S900. Great info. And a good review of riveting. I recall from aviation classes in HS using KLECOS (sp?) to hold the pieces together while riveting. I got the clutch rivets off without too much trouble. One of the rubber place holders will need a small amount of welding.
So now I need to source the rubbers. Sumo Rubber has them on back order and the rivets from Partzilla.
Have any of you seen the rubbers here domestically?

A little more info as I proceed. I got the rivets drilled out rather easily. The aluminum tabs which fit inside and hold the rubbers in place were cracked due probably to the rubbers giving way and the tabs being slammed radially as the clutch cycled. A welder filled the holes and cracks and I filed down the excess. I am awaiting the new rubbers and rivets from www.classictrial.co.uk Then it’ll be a matter of simply riveting the assembly together.
In the photo you can see the cracks on the tabs. I am glad I undertook this operation before the tabs would have completely given way.

Update. About to rivet the primary gear to the clutch basket. Now my only concern is that the clutch will be riveted such that there will be no wobble or vibrations of the clutch.

I use an easy tool self made to press both parts together, while riveting.
This way, it was perfect, without wobble, after
Yours should look different than mine, but same way of working.
Regards Guido

Thanks Guido. I have a system to secure the pieces for riveting.
The main concern I have is how precise do primary gear and basket need to be sandwiched together?
I have no way of measuring this with accuracy. Perhaps it’s negligible in that there may be only a few thousandths difference. Is this a possible source of vibration or an unbalanced clutch assembly?
Maybe this is nothing to worry about.

With a 74/19 reduction ratio, the clutch is only turning about 26% of the engine RPM if that eases your mind at all... on a TY clutch will likely never see 2000 rpm.