"USA law at the time stated that front turn signals needed to be mounted as wide as possible/practical on a motorcycle.  That's why the US Enduro models had the signals on the handlebars.  

Street bikes often had narrower handlebars so stalks on the headlight placed the signals just as wide and/or there wasn't enough room on the bars."

Again, just another observation here, and that is the non handlebar mounted front indicators were often mounted on "extension" brackets that sat somewhere around the top yoke (triple tree). This didn't apply to UK market bikes, although they can be retro fitted.

Also, Yamaha did at least three different lengths of stalk on those earlier style indicators!

I guess I'll make updates to this thread on progress.

TEST RIDE:
1: ran out of fuel  but got in to 5-6k rpm and it pulls hard; I wonder if it will pull harder at higher rpm. 
2: added 1 gallon of weedeater fuel 50:1 in tank and autolube running. put B7ES in. 

Noted it has excellent part throttle and a good hit on top.  Only got it up to 6000rpm today.  Wondered if it pulls out further.

TO DO:

Fix oil leaks. runs well! marks territory!
✅ gasket at oil pump to clutch cover was leaking pretty bad. 
✅ shifter lever seal leaking
✅ clutch shaft leaking
✅ turns out actually drain plugs only thing not leaking.
✅ new clutch cover gasket while servicing clutch
Service forks
brake check
spoke check
verify autolube now that it has a few miles on it. Tank is 32:1 or more and autolube running. Whats that 15:1?
chain/sprockets
horn
paint silver parts only. this time using semi gloss clear.

Thank you 1971DT250 for offering an NOS set of turn signals! Everything about this bike has been positive so far.

Turn signal stories:
When I was 15 I got a new '71 DT1-250. Brought it home on the rear bumper of my mother's '67 Oldsmobile Vista Cruiser with those clip on wheel brackets. First thing I did was take off the turn signals as did all of my buddies and brothers did back in the day. I believe my mother threw them away when she cleaned the garage.
I started buying Enduros and parts in 2011 from eBay and swap meets. At one time I had about 60 turn signals. NOS and early take off. Some have gone on bikes I restored. Some have gone to members on this forum.
At a swap meet 7 years ago I set up a table with some parts including several turn signals. An old guy came up to me and picked one up and looked at the price I had. He was silent for a couple minutes. I asked him if he was restoring a bike. He put it back on the table and said he was a Yamaha dealer in the '60s and '70s. He said many customers insisted he take off the turn signals before they picked up their bike. He said they sat around the shop for years and he ended up throwing many boxes of them away.

* changed out fork seals, added KDI seals~180ml Maxima 15 wt. Suspension feels very good up front now.
* put new foot pegs on.
* added clutch and shifter seals, new drain plug seals. clutch stuck together today again. Some adj may be necessary on preload.
* adjusted oil pump until it was visibly flowing at idle when spinning the wheel. Added 0.3mm shim. Jury is out...I need to volume check it. More work to do. Clearance 0.008".
* diluted fuel in tank back to 1:50 from 1:32. Probably way more oil than needed, but more work needed on pump maybe even a DEET rework if he has time.
* temp added halogen front light by Octane, but wife said its gotta go. Doesn't like the lense. I had a T19 fixed in the shell, but I smoked the bulb. A regulator may be something to look at.
* rear tail light had an 1157. Changed to a I believe an 1156 for 6V and presto great tail/brake lights. both front and rear brake pedals activate brake lights now. They both just needed adj.
* bike clearly has street gearing. The DT1 and DT3 must have different gearing. Both have their advantages.
* brush polished the forks. see pic below. cleaned up some of the hardware. No rush on this one.

Took a 30 min ride today. Air temp indicating 97F. Very impressed with performance given the heat.
Shifts great, does not like to upshift to neutral from a stop clutch in. Need check that out.


NEXT UP:

* DID chain replacement.

* Tube/tires.

Before and after forks. Lots rust removed from tubes and hardware, but still some problems as you can see. I'll probably leave them alone for now.

If you are interested in a different front fender, DC Plastics makes a 74-76 high fender. I swear it's the same as the one on my 74 DT250 back in the day. Can't tell if your steering damper is still in place. In my opinion, they don't really do much. I removed mine to accomodate the high fender. There are two tapped M8 holes in the lower triple clamp. I designed a simple plate aluminum bracket around these holes and the holes in the fender. I painted the fender and had the period-correct black stripe made. The lower end of the fender actually contacts the pipe just a little, but a little trimming will take care of that. Sorry this got a little long-winded and may be answering a question you didn't ask...

When I restored my 74 DT360, I started to trash the front fender and actually have a DC fender on the 360 now. But not long ago while I was painting my CT1, I finally painted the DT360 front fender. 

Does the stock 360 fender match up pretty closely to the DC fender?

Yes, it was very close. It was so close, I actually laid the original inside the new one to mark holes for the new one.
Here is a pic of it after paint.

I do like your idea of putting the black stripe on.

@pabdt, you say you brush polished your forks. I like how they turned out. Can you give me a little run down on how you did it and what you used for the task? I would like to do that on my RT3 fork lowers. They have discoloration but they aren’t really pitted at all. I do NOT want to polish them to where they look like chrome. Any help would be greatly appreciated.