Repairs went well on vibration concerns, but like Sammy Hagar said, "I can't get my car out of 2nd gear..."  because clutch is slipping awaaaaaaay ...I must have missed something on install.  It is the same clutch that worked well prior to disassembly!     


 

...success! This is all based on testing, not from the service manual. Feel free to comment.

TESTED DT360A Clutch order that works well:(in this case 3mm friction plates and stock drive plates)

4mm thrust washer
spacer
kick pinion gear
clutch basket
2mm x 50mm thrust washer first item in clutch basket
clutch boss
thick steel ring spacer
alternate this order, steel drive plate/friction plate 7 times ; start with steel drive plate after jutter plate.
flat washer
lock washer
nut, (I use 50ftlb)
pushrod extension for pressure plate
pressure plate toothed type

DRIVE/FRICTION PLATES:
Take note aftermarket kits seem to use thinner drive plates.

LEVER ARM:
Adjust arm by turning in and lightly turning lever left- right as it seats, then back out about 1/4 turn.
Note, spring will push washer against seal. The seal pops in by hand.

** warning ** DO NOT not use extreme forward movement on the lever arm while clutch not installed. When you move this arm and it stops, THAT is the pinion bearing. Forcing movement will UNSEAT the pinion bearing.

TEST:
With R side cover off, put bike in 1st gear and push it. Clutch should not slip. Lever should release.

NOTE ABOUT DRIVE PLATES INSTALL:
There are 27 teeth on the boss and 7 plates, so installed

Plate 1 on tooth 1
Plate 2 on tooth 5
Plate 3 on tooth 9
Plate 4 on tooth 13
Plate 5 on tooth 17
Plate 6 on tooth 21
Plate 7 on tooth 24

Yeah, I know its one tooth off from balance, but so far, so smooth. I suppose one could install N, S, E, W and then the last 3 every 9 teeth.