Ok, i wrote this on my phone while getting dragged out the door & it wouldnt post--kanuna error wtf. So now i'm realy in the --.
I said with smiley things, Marks vid is of a cdi mag, just saying!! & i've never heard a points mag 8 stroke--ok 4 stroke, maybe if the points are 40 thou wide. I might yet end up with egg on my face & have to eat my hat--but i can take it--i think?.
Just want you to exhaust possibilities as changing the mag is the bigger job thats all.
Anyway--seeing carb is on now simply "pull the side main jet & block it off" so no fuel can get past. Simple & easy & will get an instant result.
5mm short screw threads in, in place of the jet, just tried it on mine.
photos.app.goo.gl/1TtLXdbsch9x3HUD9
photos.app.goo.gl/MpguqiP6QjZHcYrh7
photos.app.goo.gl/CPNnXmgyojq8giTv8

 

As i said before I've never personally seen a points mag act up like that either.  One member here did report they had an points stator coil that went bad...  not sure if it was a misfire at high RPM or a failure to rev?  Can't remember.  He said something about suspecting the source coil insulation was breaking down.  Search is acting up but I will try to find it. 

That said, the CDI problem in the video was narrowed to the stator coil, not the the electronics.  Timing was spot on with the strobe.  Pickup coil was changed and CDI boxes were swapped without any difference.    

I agree it's a long shot.  Just out of ideas. 

Ok i'm back.
Not directly related but talking misfires reminds me slightly of the early mags that had the ign source coil earthed into one lighting coil [DT1's had two lighting coils linked] & if the points were too wide [not very wide] or very dirty it would miss bad with lights on. Have had one lighting coil delaminate & start moving on it's base with similar results even without lights on.
I'm not directly relating it to this problem, but just puting it out there!!.
Someone might have a theory on why they did 'that' [earthing ign source into the lighting coil windings].
By memory years ago it was said [or decided] it was to boost the spark at high revs.
I can't argue either way as i don't know.
Do know though that earthing it separately to the post fixed it but not sure if i created another problem.
Was 'only' 50 years ago.

Okay, I haven’t stopped trying here I’ve just been busy with work! I put in my rt3 ignition and re timed it, I really need some tips with that as I am very inefficient getting the points adjusted. I basically just guess and check till I get jt right on. But anyway that’s not the point. The RT3 ignition ran exactly the same and my old ignition. Which, I’m not going to lie I was happy that I didn’t mess up the condenser relocate (hence the name of this thread). But also not because I wanted this issue fixed. I didn’t have another coil so I was thinking that could still be my problem. But, once the new ignition was in I decided to go back to carb where I dropped the needle in without the clip per RT325 advice. And it perked up! Below is the video of it running today. Still not perfect but I rode it around the block and it sang alright. So I guess the carb is the problem or at least most of it. Now I need to I guess order a bunch of new mikuni parts. But it’s 40 degrees so riding is about done for the year.   Video  

Ok, so you rode it with the needle sitting in the jet & not being lifted by the slide. Gotta be getting fuel from somewhere or there is enough gap around the needle to suck it past. Still rich but we're getting there!!. Thanks for the update & good to know its not ignition.

Yep, it rode better than it has in a long time. I suppose I’lol order a new needle, jet, o-ring. I think think my bowl is somehow a problem though. MarkT gave me those drill bit sizes to test and I came back with the same results but the size that was supposed to fit snug seems to have more play then when I put it in my RT3 carb bowl hole. So if I can find another bowl I should probably get one of those as well. 

Orrrr should I look into a carb swap? I don’t mind the idea of it going to a boot mount vm.  My carb does seem sort of beat especially the bowl. I would need to find a flange mount that could change it to spigot. I’m sure I can find something with some digging just was thinking about it. Any opinions?

Something like this would be cheap to try. Pick whatever size you want. I'd go 32 as that's what i run on my DT1 [original 360 carb]. Then again std for yours is probably 28 which i see there in the options so don't let me sway you. 32 you'd need to open out the fiber block & manifold mouth.

www.amazon.com/Carburetor-Racing-Univers...s%2C252&sr=8-50&th=1
My mistake [manifold comes with it] so only the mouth of the reed block might need opening out. But a 28 would be ok.