I do see the little screw! I'll try to adjust it and see if that helps. I also have strange small bullet signals (pictured) so I'm not sure how to take the bulbs out or if that would even show me the wattage. How hard is it to switch out these for the original ones? I'm kind of partial to bigger lenses.

Your second picture “looks” to be showing the rectifier. The blinker module will be up under the tank I believe, and is usually a round cylinder about an inch in diameter with either two or three slide on connectors.

Those are definitely aftermarket blinkers, so verify you don’t have 12 volt bulbs. They will blink, but would be rather dim.

My experience with the lead acid batteries is I can get about a year out of them so yours may be bad or just need to add DISTILLED water.

Morning from the UK Mako and I trust that you are well!!

That was my first thought when I saw the photo purporting to be of the flasher relay. However, and it is not easy to fully read with the glare/reflection, that looks like it could possibly be an aftermarket flasher relay under the rectifier.

I am well, and will update members on that topic soon!

I stand corrected - the silver item very well could be a flasher unit. Aftermarket for sure! Looking closer, the top photo also appears to show a factoey regulator, though the mounting looks a bit cobbled.

I know that the guy I got it from did some adjustments to it, so my blinkers could very well be 12v. However this is the first time I have had this issues since I have gotten the bike if it was an issues of having 12v bulbs wouldn't I have noticed that from the beginning? I will definitely try distilled water in the battery, would you be so kind as to remind me how I get the water into the battery? The little silver thing reads 6vlow-20w, and the guy I bought it from gave me the original relay, I think I still have it

Correct Em, if they are the wrong bulbs then it's unlikely the problem would start now.

If you've got an old fashioned lead acid battery then there should be three yellow caps on the top that either unscrew or just pull out.

We'll get there!

I use an eye dropper, or syringe. Battery needs to be level when checking. I would not fill to upper level, if you do be certain that the overflow tube is connected and routed correctly to very bottom of frame. These small lead acid batteries are a real mess, they boil very easily. Electronic shops have cheap AGM alternatives but do have there drawbacks.

Luckily just a battery issue this time, replaced the battery and she works swimmingly! Thank you for all your help!

damn,I missed this thread. I would've suggested the battery immediately since I had the exact same experience lol.

The horn was like bee..ee.e.bee..... but once the battery was replaced it went BEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE.

I remove the battery and bring it in the house every day because it's cold where I live. I'd do the same if I were you and make sure you aren't using a charger that is too juicy for it

I sorta fried the first battery I had using a 12/6v car charger. 6v was fine, except it was still too many amps and overheated things.

Can you take more pictures of those bullet blinkers you have?

My bike had no rear blinkers, and while I have OEM ones now, I had looked at those exact blinkers on revzilla. They are one of the only 6v options that even remotely look like they belong on the bike. There are two mounting holes on the strut per side so I thought about maybe making little brackets to mount those as well above it for extra blinkage.

It was hard to see how they would look for real though, and now you have them! They aren't expensive (maybe 20$). Are they metal and sturdy?