all noted thanks again
heres a question
timing with points checker
killswitch on or off ?
would it make a difference?

How are you connecting the points checker?  If you are disconnecting the wire from the points to connect the meter it won't matter at all if switch is on or off.

If you are not disconnecting the points wire, then you won't be able get a "points open" reading with switch off. 



 

am taking black wire that goes from stator plate to red wire on points checker then black wire points checker to ground
so yeah disconnecting the black/white stripe wire that goes to the ignition coil to attach the points checker

Have you or previous owner installed aftermarket ignition coil because of a no spark issue? So many bad ignition coils have been posted about because someone changed the ignition coil.

Several times someone has reinstalled the original coil after finding out they just had dirty points or something and it runs fine.

yes i did change it out for aftermarket part as it was an easy part to swap out when it had running issues
will try the og one back in it tomorrow
good call

My identical situation was confirmed a moment ago to be a blown out crank seal.  youtube.com/watch?v=-ag6f_QkmYY&feature=shared

I'm a lap behind but did see MarkT mention the advancer, so if you have 'that' type flywheel i'll double up on what Mark said to be sure you're timing it on advance. If pointer on the coil & notch in flywheel are inline at 1.8mm then that's with advancer held open [against the spring at full tension] [if you have that flywheel as i said]. Otherwise ignore my woffle. Now i'll play the videos as old computer cant handle it smoothly.

Videos on #14 & #16 are both electrical misfires--i'll say in my opinion but i'm 100% certain.
The one of the other guy might be a bit flooded up as well but the electrical misfire is limiting it from getting up past there to clear.
Ok, just opinion but!!.
So back to yours & back to the advancer--if fitted. If timed at 1.8 "without" holding open then points gap would need to be a horse & cart gap to get to 1.8, hence a possible cause for an electrical miss--plus about 3mm advance if it could rev. [Or Not--if i'm of course lol, but had to say it].
Now i'll go catch up on page 3--still a lap behind i think.
Is the earlier first smokey video a silent one--can't get sound? but no matter. [post #11]

SCHU in #26, that'd be unusual in a 360 but i'd think there was an explosion in the crankcase to bush it out & bend the retainers.
They only have one retainer & yours has two fitted so must've been a good explosion to bend them both & escape--in theory. Hope the mag side is ok but possibly saved by this one giving way.
But i'm wondering what caused it--usually caused by flywheel key broken so just a suggestion to pull the flywheel & double check 'that'--plus check the mag side seal is in place.
Also could be caused by a crankcase full of fuel but i'd think it'd have to be 'very' full & a big kick to do that.
Just thinking back, i've never seen the older early motors blow a seal out. Right side seal was held in by an outer circlip on my RT1 so can't escape.
Not sure if the mag plate stops the left side from getting all the way out in the older motors--but!!

I will be doing both crank seals. When my other 360 blew the seal thru the retainer it was from a backfire while trying to start it. I resolved the backfire issue by changing it over to points and condenser. 

But this seal popped out while riding the bike. It was running fine and just fell flat on it’s face in a cloud of white smoke. I had to go in inside anyhow to free up my stuck clutch plates.