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Makotosun

Key switch & kill switch not working

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Replied by MarkT on topic Key switch & kill switch not working

You're very welcome!  Electrical issues can get very confusing extremely quickly.  So you've been doing an AWESOME job of keeping at the testing and finding answers!

When I get a longer break I will draw a new diagram and take a pic or two...  basically you'll be plugging in the stator and switches and running a jumper wire from 1 (coil connection) to 3 (handlebar kill switch connection).

This will bypass the suspected issue in the harness (we can't see what you're working with but from the tests you've done the problem does seem inside the harness.)  The kill switches should then work properly...  this won't be a permanent fix...  it will just confirm where the issue is. 

Give me a couple of hours....  probably early afternoon PST. 
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
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14 Jun 2023 09:31 #111

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Replied by Jewelkutter on topic Key switch & kill switch not working

Thank you MarkT
14 Jun 2023 09:48 #112

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Replied by MarkT on topic Key switch & kill switch not working

I took lunch early.

Here's a diagram of the temporary jumper wire in red.

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Basically a jumper connecting 1 at the ignition coil and 3 at the b/w handlebar kill switch wire to bypass the section of harness suspected of having a broken connection inside someplace...  (shown by the "X" and "?").

(I chose 1 and 3 because they seemed they would be easiest to connect a temporary jumper to...  but you could jump from 1 (coil) to 2 (b/w at ignition switch) if that's easier)

Please note that you MUST have the stator, ignition coil, and handlebar kill switch connected to the harness.  What you'll be doing is piggybacking the jumper wire to the connectors while keeping them connected.  Many ways to do this...  I'll show a couple.

In this photo I've stripped about a 1/2" of insulation off the end of jumper wire and simply stuffed it in to boot as I plugged ignition coil into harness (point 1 in the diagram).  Bare end of jumper needs to be in contact with the metal terminals under the boot and the metal terminals need to be connected to each other. A bit of electrical tape around this temporary connection is helpful.

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In this photo I again stripped about 1/2" off the other end of the jumper wire, slid back the boot on the harness and wrapped the bare end of the jumper wire around the connection the b/w in the harness makes to the handlebar kill switch.  Electrical tape here is also a very good idea to insulate and hold the temp wire in place 
Either method to connect jumper is fine... or your own method...  all that matters is you get a wire connected between 1 and 3 with the coil and switches plugged into the harness. 

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Now the kill switches should work. 





 
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
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14 Jun 2023 11:28 #113

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Replied by Jewelkutter on topic Key switch & kill switch not working

MarkT , The by-pass test worked , the engine shut off with both key and kill 
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Last edit: 14 Jun 2023 12:40 by Jewelkutter. Reason: Mispell
14 Jun 2023 12:37 #114

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Replied by Jewelkutter on topic Key switch & kill switch not working

I have continuity from the little wire that plugs into coil to black in stator connector, at the rear of the bike would that mean the problem is at the front of the bike beyond the wire that plugs into the coil ?
Can't see under the wrap .
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14 Jun 2023 12:45 #115

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Replied by DEET on topic Key switch & kill switch not working

John,
I think your problem is in the switch, but I can’t completely rule out a defective wire in the harness.
Tomorrow, will send you a plug-and-play harness that bypasses your switch internal shutdown contact. 

When you get it:
Unplug the ignition switch four pin connector and insert the new connectors in those plugs.
Run the long black wire to the coil area.
Unplug the coil black wire and insert the new connectors between them. 

By the way...
If you are building an original show bike, then you probably will not want to leave the bypass connector in place. You could send back the main harness and I can put the bypass under the wrap so it isn't visible and there would be no extra connectors showing.


DEET
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Where the Yamaha Enduro is still a current model...
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Last edit: 14 Jun 2023 13:17 by DEET.
14 Jun 2023 13:08 #116

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Replied by Jewelkutter on topic Key switch & kill switch not working

It is an original show bike complete restoration
14 Jun 2023 14:30 #117

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Replied by MarkT on topic Key switch & kill switch not working

Jewelkutter wrote: "I have continuity from the little wire that plugs into coil to black in stator connector, at the rear of the bike would that mean the problem is at the front of the bike beyond the wire that plugs into the coil ?
Can't see under the wrap . "


John, I agree completely with this statement.  It seems to me from the tests you've done like that's exactly the issue. 

Great job on being persistent and figuring it out! 

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1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
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14 Jun 2023 16:00 #118

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Replied by Ht1kid on topic Key switch & kill switch not working

Great job MarkT and Jewelkutter I’m sure you both will sleep better 
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14 Jun 2023 20:35 #119

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Replied by DEET on topic Key switch & kill switch not working

As I mentioned earlier, if you are doing a show bike, you will not want the extra harness.
Just send the the old one back and I'll send you another new one.
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Where the Yamaha Enduro is still a current model...
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15 Jun 2023 06:45 #120

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