I just checked again withe the kill and stator plugged in I get 0.00 when probing the b/w at key and other probe at harness black female that plugs into coil little wire. When I unplug the stator and kill I get 1 . It has to be both unplugged and not one or the other connections

Wouldn't that mean it's completing that circuit?

Im probablly not onto something , but I'm curious, I thought it was mentioned that the key and kill switches were independent of each other, wouldn't they be? on the wire diagram it looks like they are at the main switch? So the kill can override the key in an emergency? If that's the case could there be something wrong with the key switch ? which by the way I mentioned that I took the 74 dt250a keyswitch top and installed it to the lower part of a dt400 key switch using the dt400 contact plate I don't know my brain an eyes hurt

John, yes the switches are independent.  I decided to draw a sketch to explain the ignition circuit. 

First thing to understand is the ignition and handlebar kill switches don't disconnect wires to shut off the spark.  They ground the black/white wire which then shorts the power from the stator to ground.  That's why with the switches "off" the black/white and black connect and with the switches "on" they disconnect.  And if either switch grounds the black/white if kills spark.  So even if the key switch was bad...  even though it doesn't test bad from what you said...  the handlebar kill switch would ground the black/white and engine would stop. 

In order for the above to happen, the black/white wires in the harness at the switches must be connected to the wire that comes out of the harness and goes to the ignition coil.  That is what I was trying to get you to test.  And I don't know if I'm not explaining it well enough but it simply doesn't makes sense that plugging in stuff makes a difference.  You could mail the stator and switches to Japan and the harness should still test exactly the same. Since you kept mentioning readings with switches on and off, all I can think of is you weren't testing the harness itself?

Here's the sketch:



The ignition circuit wires inside the harness is the sort of Y on its side thing in the center.  Where the little wire to the ignition coil tees out near the middle and the point where the harness Y goes to the kill switches are solid crimped or soldered connections inside the wrapping around the harness...  you can't see them. 

The gaps show that the components are disconnected from the harness. 

If you take one probe of your meter and connect it to the place I've labeled "1"...  (the little wire coming out of the harness to the ignition coil)...  you should be able to take the other probe and connect to "2"... (the wire coming out of the harness to the handlebar switch, probably black white)... OR to "3"...  (the black/white in the main harness plug the goes to key switch) and get a reading of "0.00"  WITHOUT ANY SWITCHES OR STATOR CONNECTED.  

Probe at 1 and at 2, reading = 0.00
Probe at 1 and at 3, reading = 0.00
Probe at 2 and at 3, reading = 0.00
...  any combination should have a reading of 0.00.  

If you don't get reading of 0.00, the only other possibility is a diode hidden in the harness.  To test for that, swap probe leads...  so if you have the red meter probe in "1" and the black meter probe in "2", swap and try using the black meter probe at "1" and the red meter probe at "2".

Hope this all makes sense.  I know your harness is new but from your symptoms it sounds like 2 and 3 might not be connected to 1 inside the harness? 

Wow my head is spinning on this one I know you will get it figured out 

Back in post #103 [gosh that's a lot of post] you say you've used a DT400 lower--which is from a CDI magneto system.
I guess its not anything to do with this problem & i think [without looking] they still short out via the black joining to black/white which shorts out into the CDI box & i suppose back to the source coil or trigger coil in convoluted way?.
MarkT is a man on a mission on this one & put a lot of time into it--so don't let me sidetrack things.
My head is spinning just like HT1KID & hoping for a good outcome.

Good Morning Everyone, Thank you for your detailed explanation MarkT much easier.
I tested the meter ,probes touching 0.00
I tested 1 to 2 reading is 1
I tested 1 to 3 reading is 1
I tested 2 to 3 reading is 0.00
I swapped the probes at each test location and got the same results
, at this point I'm discouraged not sure what to do.

I tested for continuity from stator black wire in connector near oil tank to wire that plugs into coil I get 0.00 and I get 0.00 when I test key connector b/w to b/w that kill plugs into in headlight bucket . so somewhere in the middle inside the harness something is not connected? I can't see how , the tape on the harness is very tightly wrapped . I can't see how it could be the left hand control being tied into the harness with all the lights and horn working perfectly could cause it . I'll unhook all those connections and test again before I remove the harness, if that don't work, I dunno I guess I'll contact the Enduro Doc.
I mean I could unwrap this harness , but I don't want to, plus I don't know what I'm looking for, not connected wire , something missing , I don't know

I think you'll have to check with DEET. 

The tests you did on your key switch and kill switch show they are working fine.

From what you've said the two kill switch b/w wires connect to each other...  which they should...  but they somehow inside the harness they aren't connecting to the ignition coil so when one or both of the switches are "off" the little wire to the coil is not getting shorted to ground.

You could try one more test if you have a length of spare wire that would prove this is the issue.  Would you like to try that?  If so, I will diagram it out for you and you can give it a try.  (no more meters...  you'll be making a simple "jumper wire" to bypass the apparently missing connection)

Thank you MarkT, Sure I'll try the test .
you've done so much to help me and got me to understand how the test meter works for these type of tests. I am grateful for you taking the time to help me out.