Could just lift the needle--clip down, until it blubbers in midrange then go back up a notch. Then go up in main jet size until it won't rev out, then go back a size. At least you're 'then' safe. Std jetting by the book should be safe though, so i don't know. Timing within range, close to 3.2 btdc & 'no more'. What fuel are you running. Bad left crank seal. Wrong plug, go to a NGK9 to be safe although i've run 10's racing. Because its melted central & not seized i do think plug, so what plug were you running.

I was running 89 octane and a B8ES took the cylinder in the the shop today and they said it looks like the timing is off
i am going go with a colder plug adjust timing and I will try what you recommended hope everything works 
should have all my parts in tomorrow or Saturday 
thanks 

What does your cylinder head look like?  Does it have two plug holes?

Yes two plug holes

Good.  Someone on here once had a problem holing pistons and it was because it had an MX head on a stock cylinder.  Compression was way too high.

B8ES is actually the correct plug, B9 probably wouldn't hurt.  Also if you run a "spare" plug it should also be the correct heat range.

I like having the two plug capability just in case you foul one out the other will get you home
Going to be running with just one ring
I think when I have a few extra dollars I will order a new piston with two rings
Seems to me that two rings are better than one

So bummed for your meltdown. happened to me late last year, root cause was main jet 3 sizes too small with a too hot plug on a fast 3 mile ride slightly uphill. be sure to make sure your jets are as outlined in the manual, I incorrectly assumed my gal was a virgin and it cost me. good luck fixing, you got lots of ferric advice from these experts, can’t go wrong! 

I think the correct jet size is 160 I will make sure that is what is in the bike
I got lucky and didn’t mess up the cylinder
I found out that it is still on original piston size either never been bored or someone resleeved it

my concern when I melted was aluminum debris I had all over the crank area, meaning potentially down in the bearings so I decided to team her down and as Joe says build back better.  My crank was tight on the bottom end, but main bearings a bit rough so I installed new main bearings and proper seals.  My cylinder had a slight gouge that cleaned up with 1st oversize re-bore, sounds like you might be okay with a light honing.  Also, my wrist pin and bearing was blued up and impregnated with burnt aluminum and intense heat so these had to be replaced too. 

I would be really careful about slapping in a new piston and rings, perhaps before you do so you pull the engine and wash out the crankcase with BBQ lighter fluid (my favorite) and then check bearings for smoothness?  Would really be a bummer to redo top end only to have a bearing fail, more spend vs. riding.  I am not an expert, but I am pretty sure that this debris is fatal if not completely removed.
 

I took the engine out and cleaned it with gas and 2cycle oil mix washed it out real good used some q tips on the hard to reach areas wasn’t very much in there
Then I lubed everything