my rear wheel off ebay came missing the dumby valve stems.  do i just buy tubeless valve stems or do i need special valve stems to plug the holes in rim? my tube only has one valve stem.  they dont sell tubes with more than one stem do they?  anyhow im a little confused as what to do.  and why they have these extra stems? is it for balancing?  thanks for help

my rear wheel off ebay came missing the dumby valve stems.  do i just buy tubeless valve stems or do i need special valve stems to plug the holes in rim? my tube only has one valve stem.  they dont sell tubes with more than one stem do they?  anyhow im a little confused as what to do.  and why they have these extra stems? is it for balancing?  thanks for help

You need a rim lock. tokyomods.com/shop/tires/motion-pro-allo...rtex%20(Feed%20Only)

Do you mean the holes for rimlocks? Some rims have multiple holes to allow use of rimlocks to allow low tire pressure for offroading. 

yeah guy i got it from replyed its a lock. still learning about stuff here. i gotta youtube how to install. my rear wheel is a 1.85 inner rim x 18 inch. got em coming but do you have to have them? i got some screws to plug holes with before i learned that the valve was really a lock. thanks

Your rim probably has 3 holes (yes?), spaced at roughly 120' apart. One is for the tube valve stem. The other 2 are for rim locks.

Personally, I don't believe a DT1 has enough power to spin the tire on the rim, others may disagree. Yamaha evidently thought they did, and the rim locks are there to stop that. If you are not actually racing and spinning the wheel a great deal, just driving on the street and trails like it was meant to do, you could leave both of them off IMHO.

Disadvantages to installing the locks are the distinct possibility of pinching the tube during installation at either (or both!!   ) locks, and difficulty getting the wheel to balance. Not impossible to do, just adding those weights around the rim complicates the task. No locks- easier to balance. 

If you are doing a real "restoration" on the bike, then any 'inspector' would expect to see them there.

On the DT360A I rebuilt years back after I swapped the steel rims for alloy, I chose to leave the locks off completely. Some will scoff (justifiably). I run the valve stem nut right up to the cap, and watch for that to bend, thinking that if the tire is starting to slip on the rim, it will drag the tube with it, and I will see that at the stem first, and can adjust. I'm an old man, don't drive too aggressively, so it's been ok.

Your call really. 

I combined the two threads with the exact same question as it can get very confusing and repetitive when someone keeps starting new topics with the same question(s).

Note, whether adding rim locks or not, I always push schrader valve in first, snug the nut, then put just enough air to round off the tube. This helps me prevent pinching. Spray a little windex or soapy water on to keep things sliding.  The extra air also pushes the rim locks out so you can easily install nut.