You could try to email Enduronut for a copy of the photo... emailed version might be better quality.

Wow Guys!! Thanks for all the feedback! There are options.

I have a local Lowe’s and I have a welder. I’d like to go steel. Whatever I come up with I’ll share my experience.

This site is GREAT!!!

Joe C.

I bought these parts to convert/adapt into a CT1 exhaust. The 275 part number is from an RT1 and the other is on a few models. They slide into each other perfectly although the holes(from memory) for the screw don't line up - easy fix.
I haven't tried to fit in a CT pipe yet but should be right.

I was going to use the blueprint from enduronut to complete the adaption so will take some cutting/welding/additions.

I bought another pipe just for the outlet !!

Have this available, no rust !! and the heat shield.

Just some additional info. The following pics of my exhaust.



This is the correct ‘69 exhaust?

Also, I measured approx 7-3/4” from the end of the pipe into the internal baffling. I assume the “silencer” section inserts into the internal baffle hole, then the outlet pipe inserts into the silencer section. Looks like my pipe is missing both pieces...



Thanks!

Joe C.

Unfortunately those numbers relate to the spark arrestor design... you can't use them to identify the pipe. Many models had the "KS-250" spark arrestor design but the pipe itself can be completely different.

From the pictures of your bike, it looked like you had the right pipe to me.

Had some time to develop a "prototype" of a workshop baffle/silencer/spark arrestor for my 1969 CT1. The bike came to me without the factory silencer and pipe outlet. The bike is pretty loud without them. I just wanted to see if I could throw something together from home store parts that would be cheap but effective.

I found a 1-3/8" Galvanized Top Rail Connector for chain link fence at the Lowes. It fits inside the end of the exhaust pipe fairly well.



I also found some 3/4" washers and 3/4" electrical conduit. I used a washer for the end cap at the exhaust end. I cut a 6-1/2" section of conduit. I cut several slots in the upstream end of the conduit, then rounded the upstream end to close the end of the conduit off.



Then I drilled through the conduit 12 holes along its length, then turned it on the long axis 90 degrees and drilled 12 more holes for a total of 48- 5mm holes.



Then I welded the conduit to the large washer/end cap. And also the welded the tubular galvanized fence top rail to the end cap washer. The galvanized top rail material was pretty thin and it was difficult to get a good weld to it.



Here's the finished prototype installed.



Frankly, the result isn't what I was hoping for. It definitely reduces the harshness of the "ring-ding" exhaust popping, but it doesn't really reduce the overall loudness much.

It only took me about an hour of fiddling to get this constructed. Maybe a longer piece of conduit, with smaller diameter holes, or fewer holes. It will rev cleanly up to redline with this baffle installed - no worries about constricting the exhaust flow with this configuration. Parts cost was less than $5 for the amount of material used.

I'll continue to post as I make modifications to my prototype.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!!

Joe C.
NorCal

Just a note for those that might not know...

Removing the galvanized coating before welding is a must for safety and a good weld...

The fumes from welding galvanized steel are highly toxic.