Looks like the rear shocks have seen better days. They are in the ultrasonic right now, but don't think that is going to help alot.

Length fully extended: 12" (305mm) center of eyelet to eyelet
Mounting holes: 10mm
Mounting hole depth: 20mm

Added oil to shocks, cleaned them up. They need replacement. Hopefully they will work fora while. Ended up with 50ml in each and some short term repairs. Need to find the steel compression rings.

Front forks had about 90ml each of fork fluid. I almost want to replace the seals since I'm that far in.

going to assemble rear shocks as is, then replace when I find a good pair.


a 1.25mm and 0.75mm over cylinder, both CT1, piston port cylinders. I originally intended to build the 2nd engine I have, not sure if I will or not at this point. I'm going to have to replace the case halves and L/R covers and bearings not a bad idea.


some of the clean up went well. levers are the ones on bike.  I have 2 that I will be replacing them with.  They have provisions for mirrors and
a clip in brake switch.  Essentialy same ones as my DT360.  The left hi/lo beam will get replaced with what I think may be something from a later CT1 or RT.  
An alum, L/R turn signal sw/ w/ horn.  They goal there is I will have turn signals on this one as I plan to get it approved for street use.  I probably don't need them to get approved, but the original harness has provisions for turn signals. 














Looking forward to a fresh clean frame to start building on.

Hey PABDT, I've had a few Enduros over the years, and currently have a DT-3. I was never aware that you could replace or even access fluid in the shocks. Would you be able to provide a quick explanation how that's done?

THanks and your restore is coming along nicely - great work!

I was desperate to increase the dampening on my CT-3 shocks in the 70s prior to a Hare-n-Hound. I drilled a small hole through the side of the reservoir (because I couldn't see a way to disassemble them) to let the old fluid out. Then a friend welded hex nuts on the shock body centered with the hole. Two very short pan head screws with plastic washers were used as plugs. I recall the first replacement fluid I used was hypoid gear oil. I was convinced I needed a much thicker fluid to get noticeably stronger rebound damping. I'm here to report the shocks returned in slow motion!

Note, these shocks are untested. They were filled based on estimates I made.

Attached is a video of how I removed the springs. Made from 2 threaded rods and a some stock I had in garage. Obviously, there are different ways to do this. I saw a video recently where a guy used a sprocket and some eye bolts to easily compress the spring. I liked that--may make a tool like this. The video below is of a DT360 shock, but the shock springs install the same way.

To open the shocks and inspect the internal components, simply do the following:

1. remove spring, heat the spanner cap with a torch a few seconds. Sometimes the factory notches the tube so it won't loosen, so round that out first where the spanner tool inserts. These caps are tough to remove, hint some heat is nice.

2. Use a hardened steel spanner tool and remove the cap. I believe I used a 3 or 4mm tool.

At that point you can remove and inspect the components.

These shocks have 2 basic cylindrical containers. The inner tube has holes in the bottom to allow a prescribed rate of fluid movement for compression. When you compress the shock, the fluid ends up in the outside compartment. On rebound, it gets vacuumed back into the inner tube.

Remember when adding shock fluid, for most part the air compresses in the shock, not the shock fluid. If you top off the shock full, no air, it will hydraulic lock. No rebound or compression! Once you add fluid to the shock, let it sit for a while with air side up, so the bubbles can rise out of the fluid. If you fill it to a point that it is starting to get slow to expand or compress, you are probably close.

If you don't need to inspect the internal part of the shock, do what snglsmkr did and just drill and tap a screw. Don't worry about hitting things internally w/drill, there is quite a gap between the inner and outer compartments. Then you can add small portions and just test.

Hopefully this answers your question. I don't have any pics of the disassembly, as I did it fairly fast.