No i'm doing it right, i figured it out. But need to test it tomorrow. So i changed the magneto for one that belongs to a pw80. The magneto has like a slot that fits into the the rod, thing is the the points rub into the inside of the magneto to open and close because the inside of the magneto is not 100% round is more like an egg shape but the egg shape because of that tab is in a different spot where it should be because the key for the pw80 is in a different spot in the magnet that in a gt. So the timing would never be right

Am I right in saying that what we learn from this thread is that the OP is informing us the magneto from the PW80 is not a replacement for the GT50 because the cam (same profile even?) , which actuates the points and thus the spark timing, does not line up. It would be of interest to have a side by side pic of the GT50 and PW80 magneto's with the cam position showing.
I am surprised then that the machine would start and idle so well this being the case.

The magnetos look exactly the same, the cam is even the same just the key is about 30 degrees to the side, she would idle not a perfect idle but almost there (with the right carb settings). Tomorrow i will formally check since i came to that conclusion after 30minutes of thinking after putting the tools and the bike in the garage. I can take pics of the magnetos

Often my comments are 'dumb', and I say so myself as I don't currently have a bike to check over and haven't for a while. I know some cranks have the cam profiled on them, and some have a 'drop in cam' (not sure of the specific name, like on the outboard motors). Not only does the cam need to be in the same place but the position of the magnets will also affect the timing, so with the key being 30 degrees offset I wonder where the magnets would be relative to the GT50.
BTW what was so damaged on the GT50 magneto that required the switch and do you know why it got damaged in the first place? At least it seems that you will be able to make progress from here.

The magneto has a metal in front of the magnets and you can somewhat see them and they look broken like big pieces you can see the vein of the separation if that makes sense. For what i know the bike had some falls, one of the foot holder is missing a piece of metal like they make an U and the foot rest goes in the middle its missing one side of the U and is a bit bent. The other side seems someone welded on it a bit. Thing is my father doesn't remember ever welding anything but to be fair was about 50 years ago for him and he wasn't always around his bike while in the army my younger uncle was left alone with the bike. And lets say he would take the bike to see girls and broke the footrest that is dangling. The other we don't know who welded it

It seems at least you figured out your problem is timing because you're using the wrong parts for your bike.

The key is more of an "assembly aid" so if the key on the flywheel you're trying to use is in a different place you can assemble without a key.  If you get the flywheel close enough to get timing right, if the taper on the crank and flywheel is in good shape and clean and dry, and if you tighten the flywheel nut properly, it will be fine without a key.

(PVL, HPI, VAPE, and other aftermarket ignitions don't use keys.  It works fine, just a little tricky to get flywheel close with points.)

I just want it working in 6 days my father birthday xD. The nut is realy enough?

If what i said about the taper being in good condition, etc., yes.

Besides aftermarket ignitions...  drills, lathes, mills, all kinds of tools transmit a lot of power through a taper, no key. 

Haha, sounds like your younger uncle put the bike to good use! Going back to your carb symptoms that are no longer valid, if it wasn't an issue with the needle and slide as a previous poster said, those might have been symptoms of a lack of fuel, if the bowl doesn't refill fast enough the bike could idle a time but dies when you throttle

I thought PW80's had CDI ignition.
If ya talking the flywheel goes around egg shaped then is the crank bent. Unlikely.
More likely i'm not understanding or ready fully. Egg shape points cam you mean?