I'm guessing that info is off the Japanese parts list. Downloading that was one of the first things I did when I started my restore. What confuses me and probably a lot of other people is that the parts list on shopyamaha.com differs on some things. For instance on the clutch assembly it doesn't show the thick toothless ring for either the 250 or the 360. I know for sure my bike was running with it and working well. That's just one example, there are others, so it's pretty much guesswork as to which list to go by. The Japanese list seems to be the more accurate of the two, at least for my bike it is. But it's hard to trust either list completely. That's why it's so helpful to hear from the folks that have hands on experience.

In some of the threads I've seen over the years, it is claimed the 360 did not have the thick disc spacer.

I also remember some claims that some 360's may have been assembled with 250 clutches? So much could have happened over the decades and/or there could be undocumented parts changes... so who knows.

The pressure plate on the 360 diagram shows that it's "toothed" to engage and lock to the inner clutch hub. If your top plate is smooth like the 250 diagram, then you MUST finish your disk stack with a steel. The "locking" design generally is used on bike that end the clutch stack with a friction on top.

Hopefully you can see where some of the modern parts list confusion came from... the original shared parts lists had columns showing which model took which part. That information was lost for the most part on the digital parts lists you find on the Internet today.

Yeah, not ideal but it is what it is, and a whole lot better than no part lists at all. After sorting through it for awhile most of the discrepancies can be worked out. Sure has caused a lot of confusion over the years though judging from some of the old posts I've read.

My pressure plate has the teeth so good to know about the differences there, I hadn't picked up on that before you mentioned it. I stacked my plates a few days ago, just for the heck of it but don't recall right now what ended up on top. I'll check tomorrow.

I finally got back to looking for the cause of the shifter fork wear. You were right RT, that fork did control the slliding gear between 2nd and 3rd. I've looked over the dogs on both sides of the slider gear and at the slider slots on both gears, even took pics so I could blow them up on the computer in order to get a closer look. All I can see is what looks "to me" like minimal expected wear. I don't see anything that Iooks like it could have caused the fork damage. I may be overlooking something so posting pics of all for more experienced eyes to see. If anyone sees what they believe could be the culprit let me know.

To my way of thinking the fork wear looks like it could only be caused by something out of wack with alignment between the forks and the trans shaft causing the fork to sit at an angle instead of straight in. I put the fork pin on piece of glass and rolled it which is the only way I can check for straightness. Looks to be perfectly straight. And the fork doesn't wobble on it's pin and pin sits snuggly in it's hole. Don't have any way to check straightness of trans shaft but don't really think it's very likely to be bent.

So I'm pretty much clueless as to what caused the fork wear. DavefromSC gave me a complete set of forks with pins so I'll be putting those in when I put it back together and expect everything will work as it should but I'd feel better about it if I could determine the initial cause of the fork wear. Thanks

As to the 360 clutch plates, does anyone know how the steel plates with the single rounded nub on them are supposed to be stacked? All the diagrams I looked at didn’t have the nubs and no mention of them in the manual so I stacked mine all in a line and wondering if that was right or should they have been staggered in different positions.

That's something on my list of things to look into as well. But on my clutch hub there are three arrows stamped at the top and I believe the nubs should line up with the arrows, alternating each one as you stack them. Stacking them in line with one another like you did would possibly set up an imbalance.

That’s kind of what I was thinking that it wouldn’t really be balanced if all in a line. I have about 80 miles on my engine since it was repaired so I plan to change the oil and pull the clutch cover off and check everything and if we get an answer I’ll address the metal clutch plates while I’m at it.

Offset rotation of the metal discs during installation is addressed in one of the threads I linked to a few posts back....

Thought I remembered seeing something about it recently. Kind of skipped over it at the time cause I was looking for info on the shaft shims. Working through one thing at a time works best for me, but I'll find that thread, or another one, when clutch plate layout hits the top of my list.

I can see definite ramping on the dog slots in your pics. Look closely at the driving side compared to the relatively untouched other side. Rounded on the corner edge so will be less than ideal further in for a bit. So look closely at the male dogs on the driving edge. They don't look as obvious in the pics so might do a turn. If all else fails at least a new selector will help for a while.
Not sure if i said but check the high point of the selector track on the drum where the pins run as can chip or be dented at 'that' high point. Also top gear suffers a bit like third gear. Top is operated by the single selector which does 4th & 5th on the main shaft, the shaft the clutch hangs off. The sliding gear is moved towards the left. Other direction does 4th.