How'd I miss that? I think I must have scrolled past that comment before the pics had time to load, dunno, but that's what I've been looking for. That pic only shows the lower shims but it's a big help, From that pic I can get good idea of their individual sizes and where they go so I'll print off that pic and take it over to the shop with me in the morning and then I'll know where three of them go anyway. Thanks for all your help.

Not sure to go by the SC 500 diagram or not since the user who mentioned that later deleted the video he had put up saying that the installation was incorrect or something to that effect . But I'll check it out anyways and see how it compares with what I have.

Here's another thread. yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forums/74-7...-cluthc-o-ring#80641

And another one. yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forums/rest...dt360?start=70#55806

Both of the above have good videos... and as you can see even some of the experts are confused about exactly how they go together. (They do work fine put together more than one way.) SC500 diagram seems to be the best as it doesn't confuse with the 250 parts.

And if you follow the diagram you're using, you'll put the discs in wrong. 360 does not start with a steel plate.

If you posted pictures of the actual washers you are working with, you will probably get a much better response. I can figure one out with the parts in hand... show someone a (incorrect or at least misleading) diagram and ask which washers you are missing when they can't even see the washers you have is not likely to get a response.

Also, a search of GFrench posts will likely come up with more photos in one of his excellent restoration threads.

I know you'll figure it out...

Yes; lot's of confusion all around the DT 360 clutch arrangement, with both the friction disks and with the axle shims. Mine won't work with the routine followed in the video, i already tried that and the clutch basket sits too low unless I put the thickest washer I have on the very bottom. It not only rubs, it won't even turn. It looks to me like Yamaha used more than one setup on these clutches. A good example is the number of fiber and steel plates. I've read several posts that say not to use the extra thick steel plate that has no teeth, but I know mine had one because it was in the box I put it in way back when, along with the other clutch parts. So it was in there and my clutch was working fine, I just don't recall where it sat in he basket but I suspect it's the first thing in.

Yeah, I'll figure it out eventually, but sure appreciate whatever help I can get along the way.

Not sure if this will be helpful, and I'm exhausted so hope what follows will make sense...

There are basically three things those washers need to do... maybe 4 if you count the lock (belleville) washer.

First is to space the clutch gear away from the bearing/case to line up fairly well with the crank gear.

Second is to provide "thrust washer" under the outer hub.

Third is to provide a "thrust washer" between the inner hub and outer hub.

Goal is to get gears aligned, outer hub spinning freely on bushing with slight end play with inner hub nut tightened down (of course if crank gear is installed, gears meshing will prevent outer hub from moving much... inner hub/shaft needs to spin freely and independently of outer hub), and finally, inner hub height needs to be close enough to outer hub so that it doesn't hold clutch disks apart... depending on the stack arrangement.

Belleville lock washer goes under nut and there is some dispute if a flat washer goes under belleville washer... if the belleville bears on the aluminum of inner hub it should have a flat washer under it.

I understand the concepts involved and what needs to happen and the relationship of the different parts within that system. I was just hoping someone could point out the correct arrangement and save me from experimenting with different arrangements until I accidentally hit upon the right one. And since I think I'm completely missing at least one shim I was hoping to discover the thickness of each shim so I'd know which one I was missing and be able to look for the right one. Looks like I'll just need to play around with it until I find the right combination anyway since whatever clutch setup works in one DT 360 apparently does not work in all. Thanks Mark.

Following on from Marks post , and from my DT 360 A parts manual , first thrust washer at the rear ,
has dimensions 25.1 - 42 -4 , next thrust washer , ( between basket and hub ) , 25 - 50 - 2 .
Final washer , between Belleville washer and clutch hub , no dimensions given ,
but p/n is 92901-18200 . A google search may provide more info .

Thank you swoop! That's exactly what I was looking for. Heading for the shop right now to check the dimensions of the shims I have.

I think the washer between the the belleville and hub is probably just a plain flat washer and it's thickness isn't critical.

Jack, as per the kickstart preload, I had similar troubles and my problem was I took the gears off the shaft and when I put it back together didn’t have it indexed right. If you look at the manual I think it says about 90 degrees but I think I went one position further for a little more preload.

I think I got the kickstart figured out a few days ago. When you put the slotted shaft in you've basically got two options. One way will give you very little or no preload, not enough to pull the detent back into it's slot at any rate. The other option is to turn the shaft just far enough that the tab on the detent clears the slot and then slip it on in. I think if you tried going any further you'd risk overloading the spring and possibly breaking it. If I remember correctly that is close to 90 degrees as you mentioned. That amount of preload turned out to be more than enough to raise the kick start lever back up and pull the detent into the slot. I think that's right anyway and that's how I intend to put it together on final assembly, unless someone tells me that's wrong between now and then.

Thanks for the shift forks, they're much better than what I had!

Thanks to Swoop56, I looked for and found a parts list in the Tech Library.... it may solve a couple other points of contention....

DT360a has one washer under the outer clutch hub and one washer between the inner and outer hubs.

DT250a has TWO washers under the outer clutch hub and one washer between the inner and outer hubs.

It also clearly shows the untoothed steel spacer disc going in first on both the 250 and 360. The clutch friction discs are different on the 360 and there is no large o-ring on the 360. A few other differences.

All of this might have changed during production... or there could be errors... interesting nonetheless.