So we come to removing the train of wheels. Nothing jumps out at me, but of course everything needs to be cleaned and inspected.

Another nemesis of mine, refitting the train bridge.

On youtube they make it look easy, a deft flick into place, a quick adjustment and everything lines up. My attempts are somewhat longer and more red faced..  Then again I do not have the luxury of living in an edited video.....


Train of wheels removed, escape wheel, pallet fork bridge and pallet fork next. Then we move onto the barrel bridge and barrel.
There is another smoking gun in this pic thay i did not notice at the time and on reassembly I thought I had caused the damage, until I reviewed this pic again.  Phew it was not me.
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Barrel was pulled and cover removed. It was noted that the mainspring was disengaged from the barrel arbour. The end of the spring looked ok, but something didnt look quite right on the arbour. I peered at it through my 20x loupe but still could not quite see what was going on, so over to the microscope..

The tang that engages with the mainspring has worn away. The smoking gun as to why the watch won't even start up. It has no power at all.

Barrel arbour with worn tang. It looks well battered. Not a great pic but you can just make it out.



So there we have it all in bits. I have found a brand new complete barrel assembly for a tenner which is great. What is not so great is it will take a few weeks to arrive.

The new date wheel has just arrived. I will probably get around to cleaning and inspecting some parts this weekend.

 

Now it all makes sense why ENDURONUT left.

good job motorcyclists..

asco

Do not understand your post Asco.

THE LOUNGE
"All the stuff that enduroholics talk about when they are not talking about enduros. Probably gonna be kinda quiet in here!"

Continued apace.

Had a look at the automatic module and it seems pretty clear that it is meant to be replaced as a unit and not serviced. I gave a gentle rub with a piece of pegwood to get the stain off, dropped it in a jar of brake cleaner and stuck it on my ultrasonic cleaner for five minutes.

Let the solvent evaporate and inspected the action. Lovely and free now, so just gave the pivots I could get to the tiniest drop of 9010. When I mean tiny, I could not actually see it go in under my 20x loupe and am relying on faith that some was drawn in. If any excess may have been present, it was dabbed off with ridico immediately as a just in case measure. Oil finding its way onto those fine gear teeth would be a very bad thing.

Had a look at the case and pondered what do. Crystal is dull and scratched and case has a lot of fine scratches.

I know you vintage watch collectors out there do not like cases that have been buffed up on a polishing mop and like patina left on the watch.

However, I like bling..... An easy decision to make as how to proceed, the first step of my decision tree being that I do not possess a buffing wheel. So I will be disingenuous and say that I left the patina on as a deliberate decision.

Next was the crystal. It is obviously the original, probably irreplaceable like for like, is made of sapphire crystal and would probably break if I used my press to remove it. So out with the polish and elbow grease.

So we look to the case. This watch has obviously been much loved and very well cared for. There are several servicing watchmakers marks etched into the case back, one dated 1973. Same guy serviced it at least twice as his initials appear twice.

Well loved watch.



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Case fresh from the ultrasonic cleaner. Sapphire crystal scratched and dulled.



All taped up ready for an hours worth of elbow grease.  Most watch collectors like things cleaned up and clear, but do not like things over restored, so one has to be careful how to approach it. 
I decided that removing the fogging from the glass, but leaving in the deeper scratches was the best and considerably the easiest course of action.


Automatic module and case. Crystal polished, some deep scratches are left in, but are not clearly visible now. The glass looks vibrant again. Case just brightened for a minute with duraglit just to remove some old surface staining. All the original patina is still present.

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I keep mentioning stuff like 9010.  The watch forum understands what I am saying.  This forum may not.

9010 is very thin, high quality watch oil used on gear pivots ect.  There are a few different oil and grease grades used in a typical service.  I only use two.  I use D5 which is a very heavy oil for heavily loaded ( relatively speaking) parts and 9010 for parts that need to have as little lubrication drag as possible.

I cannot afford to invest in a more diverse choice at my level of watchmaking.  If I was repairing Rolex, or Omega watches yes.  But a motley collection of cheap, broken ladies watches no.
I am content enough that they will keep excellent time and be a reliable daily runner for a few years.  The pros expect a watch to last up to seven years between services if using all the correct mobius oils and greases.
I could buy "watch oil" cheaply on ebay.  Maybe £3 for 10ml.  This oil is not really suitable for wristwatches, it is ok for alarm clocks ect with large parts and mainsprings to power through the drag.

This 2ml bottle of Mobius 9010 cost me £30.  . And has a use by date that I coveniently ignore.  The pros will buy a new bottle of oil three times a year and only use 1 ml out of each bottle.  That is why a service on a vintage Omega or Rolex will often cost over £400 plus parts.
The price of all the various specialist watchmakers potions cost an arm and a leg.  

Tinkicker I enjoy reading your watch repair, restoration keep it coming     

So if I became wealthy overnight.  What watch would I be beating down the dealers door for in the morning...

Nope.  Not a Rolex, Patek Phillippe or any other fancy dandy brand.  

Far more bang for the buck than a Rolex Submariner.  £6k vs over £12k.  I do not think the submariner is worth it.  In fact no watch is unless solid gold and encrusted with diamonds.  I doubt many submariners would be found being worn while swimming in the ocean.

Oh my preciousssssssss.  The knob by the 50 is the helium escape valve for equalising pressures inside the diving bell and during decompression during very deep saturation dives.  It must be open during compression and decompression or the watch may explode on the wrist.

And the most expensive watch in the world.  Graff Diamonds Halucination.  $55 million.

It is absolutely hideous.  Must be on mind bending drugs to enjoy that in my book.



I did try to post a pic, but the forum software found it so offensive it refused to allow it.  Click the link at your peril.  Once seen, it cannot be unseen.  It looks like used bubble gum rolled in expensive gemstones.

I still remember how my Dad, a man who HATES malls and shopping, used to take me into the Tyler Mall when I was a little kid to look at a watch in the window of Kirk Jewelers whenever we were in the area.  This went on for years.  One day we went in and he put down a deposit on one.  Then every once in a while we would stop by to look at the watch in the window and Dad would go in and give them a few dollars.  I was a teenager when we left with the watch in the window... about 8 years after he first took me to look at it! 

It was an Omega Speedmaster.  "The Moonwatch".  That was about 46 years ago.  Dad still wears it every day.  

Your father has excellent taste.  Speedmaster moonwatch.  Oft regarded as the finest watch ever made.

Enjoy a moonwatch repair vid.  I warn you, you will find such videos oddly addictive and relaxing.  Its how I got started...