I’m thinking about going to hydraulic clutch and front brake levers on my 69 DT1. I’m getting older and I am feeling a bit of pain in my arms after riding my bike. I thought if I converted to hydraulic levers I would not get the same pain after a long ride. 
I did some searching here and couldn’t find anything so I decided to ask if anyone else has had the same idea and if anyone has any suggestions or thoughts. 
Thanks. 

Hydraulic clutch works very well, there used to be kits made by Hebo, which had a slave cylinder, with a bowden cable attached, which could be easily fitted, with the parts supplied. No longer available now, but kits are still made by Magura, which you may be able to adapt for your application? Pit bike hydraulic clutch kits are also available and very cheap. Could almost certainly be made to work, but would need to be modified.

Front brake much more difficult, as you would need to fit a slave cylinder into the brake plate, which would be quite tricky to do. Fitting woven brake linings, and reducing the length of the outer cable, will improve braking a great deal, and should mean no need for hydraulic.

Apologies to the goose stepper on this forum, who has been trying to get me banned! This post is NOT a troll, simply a reflection of my own first-hand experience on this subject matter.

Ummmm...  you might be referring to me as the "goose stepper" 

For the record, I am not trying to get you banned...  I'm hoping it won't come to that...  I thought you should know it was being considered.     

As far as your reply to the above post?  What could be wrong with it?  You've shared some hopefully helpful leads and ideas.  That's what this forum is for.

 

Back to the topic...  Member GFrench fitted "Easy pull" clutch levers to a couple of his bikes...  one was an RT1 if I remember correctly.  I can't find the posts anymore (ancient history) but he reported they worked good. 

Might be worth a look or try sending GFrench a PM. 

Something like this:  www.revzilla.com/dirt-bike/moose-racing-...clutch-lever-w-perch

Searching the Internet for easy or ez pull clutch lever comes up with ton of options...  might be able to be adapted for brake too? 





 

Thanks for the advice. I will look into all the options mentioned. 

If easy pull levers only make the cable nipple closer to the pivot point them--'in my opinion'--it's a waste of money as reduces lift.
I guess if your clutch is perfect in how it releases then ok maybe a good idea.
But can't beat a good quality clutch cable & if possible a 4 start actuator from a RD350 or similar, all greased up along with a silky smooth cable--can't beat it.
Used to be great aftermarket cables out there with trick liners to glide better. Also run the cable in the least restrictive route possible so no sharp bends.

RT325,

I agree with you completely...  to get more leverage you normally need to trade off for more distance.  I've never tried an "easy pull" lever but GFrench did and said they worked great. 

Another thing to try is getting one of those pressure cable lubers and lubing cable up with some of that super-zoot high tech cable lube.  I was at a bike show once and a guy from the booth went out to my bike and lubed the clutch cable with "cable life".  He had some specs and a test at the booth where you try a brand new cable attached to a spring and then another new cable lubed with their product pulling what looked like an identical spring to feel the difference of how much it reduced cable pull.  I gave him some crap because the results were impressive but the test rig could have easily been...  well "rigged". 

So we went out to my bike and he lubed my clutch cable... It definitely made a difference!  I bought some.  Unfortunately that brand is no longer around but MotionPro and others sell special cable lubes that are supposed to work well. 

We always used Dri slide in the 70’s