A great video on the autolube pump, describing how it works, and adjustment.

I liked the spray bottle and foam wedge analogy.

I may have missed some stuff because it's a long video with a lot of chatter...  That said, the "adjustment" part (end) of that video does not follow my understanding of the process and correct procedure. 

First thing is I've seen bikes that smoke like crazy simply because the throttle cable between the splitter and the carb has a lot of slack...  in that scenario the pump cam can be well up on the ramp before the throttle slide comes off idle and it will smoke like hell. The correct mark (I said "correct mark" because some pumps have more than one pulley mark, the manual identifies the correct one to use) on the pulley should align with the pin when the throttle is twisted to the point that the slide just starts to lift off the idle stop screw.  (If the short carb cable after the splitter doesn't have much slack, this might not be much of an issue)

The whole thing about "oops I didn't have my cable adjusted right" when he got almost no oil at idle might be that he did not have the plate shimmed correctly?  ...that might also explain a slight shortage of oil at full throttle.  I didn't see that he showed that part of the adjustment process. 



 

Something I hadn't noticed before is, as he pointed out, there is the wedge mark AND a dot on the adjustment pulley. I looked at mine and I'd set it close to the wedge (first pic), so with a tiny bit of slack taken up it would be on it. I think he said for 250s you use the dot, but even though I have a 175 I adjusted it to the dot and went for a ride, and there's no excessive smoking. The gap measurement, when the plunger is out, is right at .20mm as well, which is what my CT-1 manual calls for (.15mm minimum). BTW, there was very little if any leakage on my short ride, so it's not urgent, though I'll have the new seal next week. I may set it back to the wedge, though I doubt if it's that critical. My manual just say "mark" and doesn't mention the dot.

There is no "generic rule" for which mark to use based on displacement. From memory, the 175 uses the dot.

I'm pretty sure the marks are always located before the ramp makes contact with the pin. So setting at either mark is not at all likely to cause excessive smoke.

Not rotating the throttle grip to take up the slack can result in the pin being well up the ramp when the throttle slide just starts to open. Worst I saw was a bike with an aftermarket cable (possibly incorrect part or stretched as well) where the marks at the pump were aligned with throttle closed... the throttle grip had to be twisted a bit before the slide would lift and engine would start to rev. By that time, the pin was nearly halfway up the ramp! Adjusting the cable slack and aligning the marks with the slide slack taken up cured the excessive smoke issue.

I got the under sized seal today, as I anticipated it was to small. I got it over the shaft Ok but I felt that it was to tight when I spun the shaft. May of given me other problems down the road.
So what I did was I took the smaller spring and put it on the stock seal. It seamed to tighten it up a bit. It's back together and I'll wait awhile ( took 2 weeks to show up the last time) to see if it's fixed.
Been a week and seems to be fixed. Still can't believe it was a loose seal. Maybe the OEM part was defective??? Any way it's fixed!  

I have the pin set to the dot, and here's a video of it in action. You can see my "juicy" prime wheel as well. Interesting how both throttle position and RPM work together, as mentioned in the other guy's video, to protect the engine when going downhill with the throttle closed, by speeding up the pumping action. Makes a good case for keeping the pump on, and not going to premix.

Purchasing anything motorcycle related from Amazon might be a clear indicator of a drip drip drip drip. 

DEET saves you money.

ascot tt

The seal in my pump that's leaking is the original seal, 52 years old. The seal I ordered from Amazon comes from a family-owned business, that has sold OEM parts for Yamaha, Polaris and others since 1994. Partzilla sells the seal for less, but with shipping it ends up being more, and shipping was slower. I know some people don't like Amazon for various reasons, but I don't share that view. Sometimes I order from Amazon, sometimes I order from other parts suppliers. It just depends on the part, price, and availability.

I like Amazon have had good luck one being fast delivery also the no cost return policy if needed 

I'll stick my neck out. Pump action can't speed up on a closed throttle as its geared to rpm only & internal gearing can't change. Stroke is increased by the cable cam moving away letting it go further down on the pump stroke. The more throttle you give so the more the ramp moves away & the revs increase therefore it pumps faster. Closed throttle is minimum delivery although closing at revs its minimum is moving out & in at the same speed as full delivery, just a lot less oil. Umm, ok I've backed myself into a corner now & waiting lol.