I have some LA awesome never tried it in ultrasonic what is the mix ratio I’ll have to try it 

Straight, but I might risk it a tad.  Maybe try 50/50 first go.  I've seen em soak in that stuff for days, with no I'll effects, but that was on a beat up old carbs.  Hour or 2 should shake the scuzz loose.  I usually always have to use nylon brushes to finish getting the grime off, and tight spots.  But normally it's hard to scrub that stuff off without something.  I could waste cans of carb cleaner trying to soften up deposits.

Yes, you simply cannot ignore the needle jet and slide needle.  They represent the most important calibrations in the carb for good running on a normal rider. 

Worst thing to do is copy partial specs...  for example sometimes Yamaha had a jet revision with a different needle and/or needle jet and those parts might require a larger main jet to avoid damage at full throttle.  Just swapping the main jet from one setup to the other is not a good idea. 

It might run ok with the reed needle and needle jet...  best practice is start rich and give it what it needs.  Mikuni Tuning Manual is in the Tech Library or available on the web.

As Mark has just mentioned , your needle and needle jet are completely different between your DT1 and DT2/3 carb .
NOS parts for both of these , aren't too hard to come by .
I run a DT1 B myself , and replaced those two components with NOS parts .
I run a # 165 main jet , and it runs fine . To be fair I haven't tried a # 170 , but may give it a go in the future .
OEM part numbers   Needle Jet   214-14141-32-00
                              Needle         168-141116-01-00

It's really all important. The needle jet/jet needle combo probably most important.
But the slide cutaway and air bleeds are also important for proper throttle transition. Float level, and to get nitty gritty, how far is the main jet immersed into the fuel? If every piece isn't matched it won't run how yamaha intended in 1969, or 1971.

That's exactly what I did - after vapor blasting I put everything in a sonic bath and removed a lot of internal junk from the casting. The internal components (jets, floats, etc.) are all new.

I'll have to look into vapor blasting, don't think I've heard of that before.

Just did a little bit of reading, what do you use for your blast media?

I'm certainly glad I asked this question - you're the experts and these are all excellent thoughts and suggestions. Looks like I have some updates to perform to turn my later model carb into a close match for the DT-1B motor.

It sounds like I might have to change the slide as well. The carb I bought was is decent shape and I assumed the slide was the same... I'll have to dig into that too.

Does the fact that it's a JDM motor have an impact? The case is stamped "DT-1" and it's right-side shift. I assume it had a VM26SH (214 E1) carb, but I've learned to check my assumptions. The motor was essentially new but was blown (spit a ring and punched a hole in the case when a bearing boss broke off and went into the tranny). I learned that Yamaha was constantly changing and modifying weak spots; getting parts to match was a real bear.

To add to my earlier post Knutco reminded me that the DT2/3 carb uses a 1.5 cutaway , whereas the DT1 uses a 2.5 cutaway .
So you'll need a 2.5 slide , along with the needle and needle jet . All these parts interact , so need to be replaced as a complete set .
Slide P/N      211-14112-25-00

I'm unsure on it being a jdm motor, or what that means exactly.  Hopefully someone else will chime in on that!