I split the case of my ct3 because I found some small metal pieces in the transmission oil that were attracted to a magnet.   I haven't found any damage yet; I intend to dismantle the transmission to take a closer look.

While the the case is split, I was wondering besides the crank bearings and seals what else should I replace?  I did try searching for the answer but I didn't find any hits that addressed anything but crank bearings or damaged parts.

thanks,
Rob

Where do you stop, how is the bigend.
If ya confident at dismantling after doing it once & can do it again easily at a far later date & if the bigend feels ok then just do seals.
If in doubt then do mains too.
Big thing at the moment is gearbox shrapnel & finding the cause. [in my opinion, & i hate spending money lol].

Since you're in there . . . Inspect the connecting rod crank clearance. If out of spec good time for a crank rebuild.

There is no vertical play in the connecting rod. I will check the horizontal as soon as I look up the tolerances.

The splitting went smoothly. I anticipate having much more difficulty in the re-assembling.

Thanks for the feedback.

Check the transmission bearings close, that may be the source of the shavings, the output shaft bearing next to the drive chain takes a lot of strain, seen bearing failure on the one the clutch sits on 

Revolve the crank to see if you can feel any roughness because the rod looses hardening most likely at the top of the bigend eye circle.
The rollers often just loose hardening over part of their diameter.
So when they roll to the point of the missing hardening on rollers & rod aligning it'll go rough at that point then smooth out until the next lap.
That's maybe exaggerating things a bit.
I got caught out once doing mains that were growling but it was also the bigend.
Hope yours is ok.

Really hard to feel vertical rod movement. I had a rod once that felt perfect, no growling, no discernible vertical play.... made the big end clicking noise when it was back together and running. 

Pulled the cylinder and tested the small end rod "wobble" as described in the manual. Was out of spec. Rebuilt crank and nice and quiet.

Thanks for the additional info.  Can't have too much.  or at least I can't

I tested for horizontal play at the small end; it was less then 2mm and only a .43mm feeler could fit inside the gap between the rod and the lobe. I really don't know what the two heavy discs on a crankshaft are called, lobe sounds good.

I need to purchase a dial gauge holder to test the crank run-out.  But I have plenty of time until march

How does one test a needle bearing?

I see it like this,replace all the bearings and seals. Do that then you know it's all new.Replace the lock washers and dont forget the O ring on the crank primary side. I'm quite sure you will have two crank shims, one each side, within the case too so don't lose them. Information is power ! So if you don't have one,download the free manual from here, it's on the Tech Page section of the task bar at the top.