If you’ve been following this whole thread, you know the genesis of the bike. A real barn find. As such the motor cases are pretty oxidized and nasty.



I toyed with painting these but that seemed like a cop out. So an hour or so later we got three of the covers cleaned up a bit.



This isn’t destined to be a show bike, but I’m trying to do a nice rider rebuild.



There will be a number of Taiwan rep ops on the project, and gauges are still undecided, but we’re going to keep at it!

I've never seen it documented but I believe those shims on the later models were "as required"... I've seen some with none, some with one (which I seem to remember is always is on the right side for some reason) and some with two (one on each side).

If you put it together with the shims on both sides and the swingarm locks up solid when you tighten the bolt to spec, please don't be tempted to loosen up on the bolt torque... the holes in the frame will wear out. (I know this from experience)

No worries. I’m just putting it back together using the book as needed. This isn’t a restoration. It will be a rider.

I’m going to be using some silver Tusk handle bars which is an experiment - their ATV bend is almost identical to Fly bars. I’ll be reporting on them later. I use these bars (different bend) on my DT400E and my DR650 and am pleased with how they work. I’ve just never tried this bend.

Gotta wait for my parts to finish the bike up to a roller, so I spent a good day bolting various repainted parts back on the frame, and replacing most grommets and a lot of the fasteners. Kind of embarrassing how much of what I needed was just mined from my garage inventory

Airbox in, steering head rebuilt and installed, new brake pedal (old one bent bad), seat lock. All repainted.





I got a lot of new bolts on the steering head fresh from Yamaha. But I’m using up a lot of red plated fastener stuff I had in stock. So you’ll see various traces of red on the bike.



More to come!

These are the bars I spoke of earlier. Tusk T-10 handlebars made of heat treated T6 aluminum. Steel bolt on cross brace. ATV bend. I’ll probably get a different pad cover or just delete it!



Perches are stock ‘75 OEM, new bolts, polished original adjusters, Parts Unlimited Shorty Levers (part #44-4105). I also added a mirror adapter on the left bar so I can use any 10mm mirrors.

I think the bars will be an almost dead on match for the silver fenders!

Wow... nice transformation!

Gotta do the forks next. Need seals. Thinking I might polish the lowers

Since the paint is actually decent, I don’t plan on doing a repaint on the tins. There is some surface rust in the battery area and oil tank. Looks ok from 10 feet.





I’m thinking of using some sort of treatment on the rust, then a clear over the top to preserve the patina.

The gas tank is fine, mainly the oil tank needs this. Thinking just a layer of Duplicolor engine clear. Anyone tried that?

Rust may still grow under a clear coat and turn it into a mess...….maybe look at a concoction of diesel fuel and something (would have to research the mix ) and rub over it and can be then freshened up occasionly, easily . Restorers use this method for old tractors etc. restored and left in their "working clothes" Idea of leaving the original surface will look great.

That’s a good idea and bears some research! Thanks!