I've never moved a stock condenser... have used a car condenser remotely many times.

Midlife Motor recently posted a great thread on how he chose to do it.

yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forums/74-7...er-relocation#106154

Aha - that's super - thanks! The old Mitsubishi condenser is marked at .30uF. As long I'm close to that number I'm just going to stick one of the coil and run an extra small wire to it to complete the circuit. I can't get a warm feeling using NOS parts, sketchy parts numbers, and unknown manufacturers. I'll post back what I ultimately do in terms of parts and location.

Mounting the condenser next to the coil has been done , and works fine .

My 1974 MT250 has the condenser mounted on the ignition coil under the fuel tank, it is still running great on that since it left the factory in August 73 with.

My neighbor, a huge collector of bike junk, rummaged through his pile and came up with a boxed Mitsubishi condenser - tested at .306uF - not bad for 50 years in a box. I'll give 'er a go but will still pull an extra wire to the coil... just in case. I really like the coil-mounting idea.

Thanks to all for the help - you guys are terrific!

I may be wrong , but most condensers used on Yamaha points ignitions I believe were .22uf .
Whilst condensers of different values will work , I recall in an old tuning book , reading how
using a condenser of too much or too little capacitance , would affect the spike that grew on
one of the points contact faces . I can't remember which way round it went , but changing the
capacitance would shift the spike from forming on the ground contact , to forming on the moving
contact . As a young lad , I was tempted to experiment on my RD 350 condensers , as they used
to develop these spikes , but never actually did it . I was kept busy enough just resetting the points
for Production Races at the time .

Yamaha service manual says .22uF

Hi Swoop - this is interesting. The capacitor I got from Niche Cycles, the one where the top came off, is .226uF - exactly what you mentioned. However, I kept the old capacitor from this DT-1B motor - it's a Japanese market motor by the way. It had a Mitsubishi cap in there stamped C-238 and .30uF. Just for grins I tested it and got .302uF - still good! The NOS one my neighbor found was a bit rusty on the bottom and the markings were not readable but I measured .306uF. This engine wasn't run much and the points were pretty clean - no spike buildup. As you said, if a cap is too big or too small it will migrate material to one side or the other - I can't remember which way it goes either.

Probably not relevant here, but care needs taking not to mix up electrical parts from different manufacturers for the "same" bike.

The example that I know about is the RD400. The US models used Mitsubishi electrics and the part numbers for these are suffixed -20. However, the European models used Hitachi electrics and part numbers for these are suffixed -10. Some UK owners of US imports have come a cropper when fitting Hitachi parts (eg points) to Mitsubishi systems.

"have come a cropper"

There's one I don't recognize. Fill us in.