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Makotosun

Diagnosing DT250A Clunking and Power Loss

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This thread had been a real nail biting Yama-Exciter for sure. Not certain how it will end? But you’ve got 10% of the Yama-Internet here as a rooting section and nothing but positive energy so far. 

asco
YAMA-LAND RESTORATION,
( 818 ) 521-2109
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1971 CT1-C (BRANDY)
1970 DT1-C (MONICA)
1972 AT2M (ZIFFLE)
1970 CT1-B (HULK)
1971 DT1E (GINA)
1970 CT1-B (CLIDE)
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28 Jul 2023 13:32 #31

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Replied by RT325 on topic Diagnosing DT250A Clunking and Power Loss

I just load my pics onto google photos then link them across. I might be doing it wrong as don't show live but hit the link & it shows plus i guess saves space on the site--if that makes sense.
So sounds like yours doesn't need the steel last one in & just the thicker one at the back if no built in flange.
With the splined pressure plate it might need to be timed--might need to be fitted so splines plus the spring posts all line up to fit on & up to the fibers.
Could be alignment three lines but if not you can't go wrong as will only fit one way.
Last edit: 28 Jul 2023 16:19 by RT325.
28 Jul 2023 16:17 #32

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Replied by jp_dt_250 on topic Diagnosing DT250A Clunking and Power Loss

Days turned to nights. Nights turned to days. The sun rose and fell in equal measure, ceaseless, constant. Days became weeks, became months. The seasons turned in their further eliptical orbit, crawling on hands and knees then lurching suddenly forward at breakneck rates, only to whiplash back in time with the great astrological metronome. Years passing first at a steady flow but gaining momentum, faster and faster, quickening at a quickening rate. Faces no longer faces but blurs of motion appearing and receding in random frantic cadences, all edges and definitions dissolving into the stretching infinity of time, the sprawling centrifugal expansion outwards in all directions from the ultimate singularity, omnibus church bells tolling GONG GONG from their unseen multitudes alongside a terrible cacophony of hounds, louder and louder and closer and - oh, it's the doorbell. Mailman just dropped off the gasket set from ebay. Finally. Time to put everything together again.

Cylinder: rebored
Ports: chamfered
Crank taper: lapped
Piston, rings, main seals, woodruff key, gaskets: replaced
Oil pump: bled
Motor and crank cases filled with oil, a splash in the gas tank for insurance.
Components lubed, engine reassembled and reunited with the frame. Reconnected electrical, tach, oil line, spark plug, clutch cable -

whoops, the little bit screwed on the end of the clutch cable flew off when I tried the lever. Oh well, get it back on and tightened down as much as possible with a pair of vice grips and flathead. End of the cable is a bit frayed, I'm sure that won't be an issue. Test the lever, clutch is actuating. All systems are a go.

Ignition on, killswitch off, petcock open, brake pulled in, starter turned out.

Kick!
Kick!
Kick!
Kick. Kick.. kick.. kick. Fiddle with the petcock, tap the fuel line a bit, open the choke.
Kick. Kick. Kick - VRRRRRNNGNNNNNGNGNGNGNGNGN - It's alive!

A short moment of celebration and incomprehensible jerking of the arms in what appears to be a display of victory. Leave it on idle for a few minutes, RPMs come down a bit and it sounds stable. I think that's a good sign? Too excited to care, get my helmet on and roll the bike out of it's home from time immemorial. Kickstand up and check everything one last time, pull in the clutch - *pew* - ... the clutch is completely loose ...

Crashing darkness, followed by a deafening silence as the bike is switched off. Rolled back into the garage. Close the door, turn off the lights. Locate a replacement cable kit and end fasteners from ebay with little feeling, no longer seeing numbers, just clicking through the checkout screens until the order is placed.

Ah well, I consider myself lucky the cable end didn't break free during an actual ride. The old quote about bad luck and worse luck truer than ever. Still hard to contain my excitement that the engine is back together and running again - I really can't thank everyone from this thread enough for the help getting here, without you all I'd still be changing the spark plug and praying for divine intervention. I'm sure it's on the brink of some other minor catastrophe that will set it back another few weeks from riding but hearing it start up again and idle was a high that should keep me going for another few rounds of mishaps. Just hoping I can eek out a bit of action before the long winter arrives.
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13 Aug 2023 15:52 #33

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Replied by RT325 on topic Diagnosing DT250A Clunking and Power Loss

That's quite an update story thanks. Hope the flywheel is nice & tight. Do you use screw on ends on you cable. Can you solder it over once you set it for how you want it. Or am i misunderstanding.
13 Aug 2023 16:03 #34

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The Vise Grips are what got you into trouble in the first place. Mechanically Inclined. Perhaps. Perhaps not? Not a judge, jury or executioner. 

measure twice 
cut once

asc
YAMA-LAND RESTORATION,
( 818 ) 521-2109
This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
1971 CT1-C (BRANDY)
1970 DT1-C (MONICA)
1972 AT2M (ZIFFLE)
1970 CT1-B (HULK)
1971 DT1E (GINA)
1970 CT1-B (CLIDE)
13 Aug 2023 16:40 #35

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Replied by jp_dt_250 on topic Diagnosing DT250A Clunking and Power Loss

The cable end was of  this type  except the main body was square with a hole drilled for the cable instead of the cylinder shape. Is it common to solder the lock to cable once set for added strength? 
14 Aug 2023 07:42 #36

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Replied by MarkT on topic Diagnosing DT250A Clunking and Power Loss

I've never had any luck at all with a "bolt on" end. 

Normally either the end is "cast on" or what I do is make/buy a brass end and solder it to cable.  I'm sure there are youtube videos showing how.  I countersink the side the cable exits, fray it, and then I dip it in a solder pot.  Everything must be spotlessly clean and the areas the solder needs to stick to treated with acid flux. 

An "old school" motorcycle shop or maybe one that build custom bikes might be able to solder end on for you. 

Or maybe you can find a new cable.
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
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14 Aug 2023 09:00 #37

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Replied by jp_dt_250 on topic Diagnosing DT250A Clunking and Power Loss

Used a brass fitting and a sent it for a healthy swim in the solder bath, feels solid and initial tests give the same impression. Rolled the bike out back and was delighted to find I can now shift gears again. A few laps around the block later and I'm tentatively calling this one a victory. Hopefully I can now return to the task I was steadily iterating on at the beginning of the summer - learning how to ride a motorcycle in the first place!
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14 Aug 2023 19:02 #38

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