I think I got the stripped hole in the case for the manual clutch adjustment fixed with an insert.  Anyways, I put it all together and tested it out around the yard.  
It is a lot better, and it grabs enuf to pop the front wheel in first a bit where before it would not grab enuf to move the bike.  But it seems to have some slippage in the very upper rpms.  I get the best action with the clutch handle adjustment (and the inline cable adjustment) all the way slack/loose, which I find odd..  So I take it back apart to check my steels and fibers.  This model has the big rubber O ring cushion rings,  My question is in the manual it shows, in order of installation, first on rubber o ring-fiber-steel then o ring- fiber-steel, in that order.  The manual shows 4 steels, 5 fibers, 5 rubbers.  It shows ending at the end with a fiber.  But this bike had 5 steels in there, not as the manual shows (4). Would I put the extra (5th) steel on first or last? 
In the same manual, it shows the 100 and 125 putting a steel on first on those 2 models and also shows a steel on last, out on the end on the 100.  The springs measured in spec. 
I haven't tried to run it yet without the first installed steel on there yet.  But that leaves me with an extra steel.
I think I remember reading in the past the big rubber o rings can be omitted, true?
I am also considering going to the hardware store and get some washers and put one on each spring screw (5), in attempt to push the plates together a bit more.  Opinions on that?  If they may be weaker with age.  
Any opinions and tips would be greatly appreciated.  The ol' 175 starts super easy and purrs like a kiity and runs out clean so far.  I redid the top end bore and piston years ago and finally got back into it after leaving it sit after discovering that stripped hole.
Thanks,
Dan
  

 

Yes you can leave the rubber O rings out.

Ok, I thought I read that years ago.
Thanks,
Dan

You need to end with a steel on that model

Ok thanks
Dan

I also did notice when I took it apart the most recent time, it was a steel on first, not like the manual shows .  I will try the steel on last, without the rubbers and see how it feels.

I put it back together. I am back to square one, it does not have enuf grab to barely move the bike in first gear (and when I pull the clutch in, it will not click out of first, to neutral or anywhere when running), if I shut it off I can shift into nuetral easily. This is with the fiber on first, steel on last, rubber o ring cushioners still in there, and I did not try washers on the spring screws, yet. So I went back to the other side. After looking at those pieces, removed, I can't figure out how these are supposed to act to provide the proper 'throw' as mentioned in the manual. All I can make it do is make it let it turn or jam it so it does not turn (turn the axle push lever part #19).
The protruding end of the adjustment screw (opposite of the screw head end) goes into that grove on the clutch axle push lever or it doesnt. Any input as to how this is supposed to be properly set up would be greatly appreciated. I can't see it for some reason.
<img src="i.ibb.co/PDYsbX2/175-CLUTCHadjust-CUT.jpg" >

Once that tit is engaged in the arm you probably only get about a full turn clockwise until its bottomed out. Then the only way is back. So you 'idealy' need to be able to use a half turn say to the right for full lift or to the left for sending the arm lower. Up 'full lift' is taking up the pushrod clearance & cable freeplay. Conversley down you should en up with a lot of lever free travel. Maybe i'm describing it wrong, but bottom line is to lift & lower the arm without the pin [tit] disengaging. It's not an in & out adjustment but an up & down one because of the steep taper on the part that pushes the pushrod as shown in your pic. So if the clutch is slipping it may have nothing to do with the arm at this stage. To prove a point just leave the arm loose, no cabler [could even leave the arm out] & go start it & paddle off & drop it into gear & see if it drives. If not then go back into the clutch stack of plates. Leave those rubbers out too.

I will try to make the bike move without the arm in, maybe that will help me understand.  Without the influence of the arm, lever, and cable the clutch pack should be able to move the bike as it sits.  Good idea.  

You might get oil splash out of there or bung it, & when you put the arm back in the pushrod might need a flick back over to the far side. Just guessing. But if the arm is free & doing nothing then that's about as loose against the pushrod as taking it out would be.