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Torque Conversion

  • Jammyyammy
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Torque Conversion was created by Jammyyammy

I need some help with torque settings on my DT400. The units of torque in the DT250B/400B service manual are really confusing (to me!). I'm not 100% sure I'm getting the conversion correct. I would be grateful if one of you good people could confirm that I'm doing this correctly....
eg Front axle nut torque = 10 to 12 m-kg.
 
 

So, taking the mid value and sticking it into an online converter, I get 108Nm. Is that correct? It seems very high???

is there a document where al the torque values are listed with more recognised/modern units?

Many thanks.....
02 Mar 2021 15:08 #1

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Replied by RT325 on topic Torque Conversion

I'm no use as just swing on it big time so probably all of what google converts 10 mkg to which is 72 ftlb's. Just talking a typical Yamy front axle RT2 etc. Can't come to much harm tightening the axle super tight. Mind you i can blow that theory, on my 1980 yz125g in 1981 i had tightened the rear axle so tight for so long--so many times--over the year that the floating rear brake sleeve got swollen & landed from a jump so suspension went down & only came half way back up. was scratching head between races until i loosened the axle. Only mentioning 'that' incase overtightening affects the speedo drive gear rotation but highly doubt it--they do rust up & stop turning though. Someone will be along soon with some 'sensible" info. Cheers from NZ.
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02 Mar 2021 15:53 #2

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Replied by RT325 on topic Torque Conversion

found the value on an xs650 front axle just googling on a random forum & they say 76 ftlb's but not sure if axles the same diameter.
02 Mar 2021 15:58 #3

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Replied by MarkT on topic Torque Conversion

Reading through text almost always has torque specs in in-lb or ft-lbs.  (Divide in-lbs by 12 to get ft-lb)

The difference between a kg-m and a N-m is simply the acceleration force of gravity which is about 9.8m/s^2
.So multiply kg-m by 9.8 (roughly 10) to get N-m.  Not too hard.

The bigger concern is Yamaha specs are often wrong...  so it pays to use common sense and check other similar model specs if something doesn't look or sound right...

In this case, it's about 80 ft-lb which is about right...  most people just make it "tight".  Also, axle can be inserted from either side but should always be inserted so that axle nuts are on the left side of the bike. 
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
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Last edit: 02 Mar 2021 18:07 by MarkT.
02 Mar 2021 17:12 #4

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Replied by msavitt on topic Torque Conversion

Mark - there must be a reason for axle nuts on left, could you share?
Just curious 
thanks!
02 Mar 2021 22:02 #5

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Replied by MarkT on topic Torque Conversion

With wheel spinning forward any drag on axle will be in the "tighten nut" direction if axle inserted from right to left wth nut on left.
If you insert axle from left to right, tendency would be to loosen nut.
If you're using cotter pins or fork lowers clamp axle, it's arguably not that important...  but if ever axle came a little loose and no cotter pin, having the nut on the left could make the difference between loosing the axle/wheel (and likely a big crash) and being okay.
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
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02 Mar 2021 22:42 #6

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Replied by hatrick1960 on topic Torque Conversion

Same dilema as me!

Just gone through this myself - i did my axels to 110Nm
03 Mar 2021 08:11 #7

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