Here's a link to one of the threads with a lot of good posts on gauges...  includes the pictures of Devin's crimping tool.

yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forums/how-...uge-restoration#2004

Thank you Mauser

More to come.

There'll be a period of down time while the bodies are out for re-chroming and the other odds 'n ends collected.

A bit more to show regarding my gauge reconditioning.  Although I already successfully removed the tiny screw that holds on the trip meter reset knob for my reconditioning needs, I have additional gauges here and am continuing to push myself in dissecting, cleaning and reassembling the internals to an operative condition.  I was fortunate with the unit I previously took apart.  The next one was impossible to extract b/c the screw head was too corroded for a screwdriver to get a bite.  Somewhere in my searching the threads on this subject I read a question concerning the drilling off of the screw head.  In that thread it was kind of discouraged because an unskilled attempt could cause more problems.  Remember - the knob has to come off to get the gauge disassembled which I learned earlier in this thread.  And, I have not much to lose by trying because this is a spare.  I will say that it's an operation that is not for the faint of heart and requires a gentle and patient approach.  The pictures below will show my process.   The first steps were to drill off the screw head.  There's no pics of the drilling.  You simply need to be sure to use  bits that aren't too big or you'll damage the surface on which the screw head tightens down inside of the knob.  The bit shouldn't be any larger than the shaft of the screw and you need to patiently feel your placement of the tip of the bit so as to be centered in the screw head.  I probably retracted the bit 3-4 times to be sure I was removing material and that it was in fact metal and not plastic from the knob.  After I was somewhat confident that I drilled through the head, I use a slightly larger left hand bit believing it would snap the head off the screw as soon as it bit in... and I was right.  Mind you, you operating on feel and evidence of your drilling... but you can't see a damn thing!  The knob doesn't simply fall off.  You need to test now and then by gently trying to pull it off.Once the knob was out of the way, I put the end of the trip meter "axle" shaft into mineral spirits (other solvents could be used) and let it soak for five days.  Then I clamped on to the shaft with a small pair of vise-grips being careful to be sure that one jaw of the vice-grip was on the flat surface of the shaft to prevent rotation when extracting the stub of the screw.  I used a bit of heat to help along any additional resistance that I could eliminate.  A screw this small and rusted will be very brittle and easy to break off flush... and then you've got a whole new challenge!  Once heated, I used a good set of my smaller pliers that have good gripping jaws, grabbed hold and started turning out.  It cooperated from the first twist!  I hope this is helpful to someone in the future faced with a similar issue.

Pics....

Remaining pics......

This appears a very quiet.. relaxed tinkering..  I'll need to look at my DT 250A's.. they are on the mount.. all wobble-y.. 
Thank you for sharing your hobby!
Sneezles61

For those that have interest I wanted to share the conclusion of my gauge reconditioning project.
I'm pleased with the outcome and that I challenged myself.
I have a several more of these gauges and there's a part of me that would like to recondition them as well but there's quite a bit of $$$ outlay for the supplies and the re-chroming and it's money better spent elsewhere.... even if I was to do it with an eye towards selling them.  I'll probably just sell off the remaining gauges and parts when the AT2 is finished.
Pics of the conclusion follow.

     
 

      

     

     

Nicely Done!!