First time posting here and hoping for some insight. I purchased a 1973 RT3 360 from a nephew of a gentleman that was mid-restore but passed away from cancer. I'm trying to get the bike back in running shape.

Issue 1:
The clutch cable was broken and lever missing. New cable (motion pro rather than oem) installed but it seems too long (about 1/4 inch longer than the threads all the way out). I can get it tight to test, but doesn't engage clutch when pulled in.
Issue 2: The threads on the clutch rod lever cover are totally stripped, but the actuation seems to work well. But, when engaged, it doesn't allow the bike to roll/spin freely
Issue 3: I drained the oil (thinking I should replace as I don't know when it was last filled (but it's unused after seeing it drain) and a spring and rod came out with the left side plug. So damn confused. Was the rod supposed to be on top of the spring? Or did I pull the clutch rod (near the rod lever cover attached to the cable) and dislodge something? So I'm hoping I don't have to split the cases!

Any help is appreciated. Sorry if I'm posting in the wrong area.

First....whoa whoa whoa...the front wheel is on the wrong way! The brake drum should be on the left side, and the fender is reversed! There is a slot on the brake drum that fits a notch on the fork lower body, and that needs to be on the left side! I've seen alot, but never the brake on the right side & fender reversed!

Second, you pulled the shifter detent plug, which is almost directly to the left of the drain plug. No big deal, just insert the sleeve first into the case opening, then the spring and bolt. Then pull the drain bolt (17mm head) to get the rest of the oil out. Torque the bolt back in (both of them) to make sure you don't overtighten and damage the threads. You can find service manuals using the Tech Library link at the top of the website.

Pull the left side crank case cover off and see if the plastic/nylon part within item number 21 on the diagram below is split. Hopefully it's not, as they aren't cheap to replace.

Happens all the time, really:

Much appreciated!

I didn't reinstall the front tire and planning on swapping rubbers, so it'll come off and be mounted properly before test riding. I'll pull the clutch cover off.

Thank you both!

Thanks Al,

Attached a pic. Does this look like it's missing something? The arm does operate and extend when clutch perch is pulled.
If the pin that fits the end of the lifter was pulled out, do I need to remove the clutch cover from the other side and reseat the bar (pointed to in the pic)?

Can you tell if the 5/16" ball bearing is present (item 13 on the diagram that I posted earlier)?

If the clutch is operating & won't free when disengaged then its likely just stuck together from an extended hibernation. In which case ether start it ten run beside & hop on n pop into gear with the lever pulled back & head off down a rough bit of ground & it should free up. Change up to about 3rd gear & it'll give in. If i've got my wires crossed & you mean something else then i'll have another think.
With the front wheel being the wrong way--the forks will need swapping too--to get the brake anchor back on the left. In saying that i must admit i've done that on purpose when the only brake cable i had was too short to go from the proper side. Actually taking that further--the front guard will be back to front due to the different mounts, so back to plan A & do it right. Welcome too. Back to the clutch--No21 the nylon worm does split & stops it moving sideways although my worst one still gets just enough movement in the last part of the movement with the cable & center adjuster wound up, so probably not your problem.

Thanks Gents. I pulled the forks and flipped them (so the brake was on the correct side and fender aiming forward). Tire that's on there is universal and will only be used around the block test when it's finally running.

I'll pull the right side cover and remove the clutch to look for the #13 bearing.

Thank you both,

The ball bearing locates from the left, just in front of the rod, despite what the parts guide indicates.