Working on a 71 175 clutch. When the bike showed up, it supposedly had a new (non-releasing) clutch that worked before. Pulled the cover off and found one of the pressure plate screws broken off in the inner hub causing the pressure plate to lift unevenly. Took the remaining screws and springs off to find that the inner hub was also binding with the basket. Took it the rest of the way apart (and successfully removed the broken screw), and the only thing I see missing that shows in the parts breakdown is one of the two thrust washers against the bearing. I'm not sure which I have, but both are available on ebay cheaply enough. I've attached a pic of the breakdown and the parts as they are arranged on the shaft. Left side of my pic is against the bearjng. Is the one thrust washer all that I'm missing? Is this in the correct order?

I've done clutches on these and replaced baskets before, and I feel like there was a typo in a parts book on some random small bike's clutch breakdown, but I can't remember which bike - or if I'm imagining it all together.

Search here. Has been discussed at least a dozen times.

Bearing has a thin washer that is part of it and not shown in parts diagram. So washer on each side of bearing with only one shown in diagram.

Also need to end stack of disks with a steel on that model. Diagram incorrectly shows ending with a friction.

Thanks! 

Bearing with its thin washer needs to go the right way around so flat rollers bear on a hardened washer both sides.
If the hub was binding on the basket [& assuming assembled as it should be] it's not uncommon if it's been apart a few times as have minimal end clearance to start with [free revolving clearance only]. So trick you might not like but i've done things like ground a bit off the face of the back of the small kick gear on the basket to get clearance. I know once i removed the kick gear & ground the two dogs so the back of the gear was still nice. But the one i did was pressed onto the extended bush through the basket & it damn well didn't go back on nice trying to pick up. Was a non removable gear [sort of] not a floating one. So 'if' when you tighten the center nut--things to consider if goes tight & won't turn. Be careful that flat bearing doesn't get trapped on assembly.
Sorry not why i'm going on, i think you said been there before.
One more--does your clutch have the anti-chatter ring think its #15 [can't quite expand clearly]. good idea if missing & fits over the gear & in the V between basket & gear & damps out the basket chatter at idle although worse on CT2 & CT3 due to light mag flywheel & less idle inertia--CT2's wanting to be a racehorse even from idle.
Sorry for the long story. Wish i could do short ones when needed & get to the point lol.

If I remember correctly, on the CT1 you have 2 washers that go on the shaft first... against the bearing in the case...  1mm thick and 2mm thick. 

Then the tall spacer...  it sits on top of the 2 washers. Kick gear and  then outer clutch hub goes on next over the tall spacer. 

Tall spacer should stick through the outer hub a bit.  The thin washer that is part of the flat bearing fits over the end of tall spacer and then the flat bearing also goes over the end of the tall spacer.  Final washer is thick like the first two thick washers that went on except it has a larger outer diameter.  I.D. of the final thick washer is size of shaft and does not fit over tall spacer...  butts up against end.  Then the inner hub and locking washer and nut go on.

With nut tight, outer hub should have a bit of end play... and should spin freely on tall spacer...  if not, see what RT325 said...  the kick gear and inner hub are too tall. (I've been lucky and never had this issue.  Washers and tall spacer are hardened steel so it would take bit unless somehow nut was loose and tall spacer spun and wore ends down?  Kick gear could also have been replaced (they break) and maybe isn't seating fully in outer hub notches?  That's where I'd look for a burr or something first.)

Someone once reported crank gear and outer hub gear didn't align well and they had to remove one of the initial washers with smaller OD that fit against the bearing in the case....  I've never had that problem either. 

Hope you figure it out. 

 

Now i open my good eye i see the kick gear is a floating fit on the center spacer--so easy fix if need be--couple of wipes off the dogs unless bottomed out on gear before dogs bottom out. If that make sense [my sense]. But only if it locks up of course & hope it's not necessary.

To add one more thing that just popped in my head... I usually test fit when assembling after changing crank seal... before crank gear is installed. (If I'm taking the clutch off on a "new to me" engine, it's pretty likely I'll change the seal.) Then I pull the clutch assembly, install the crank gear parts, and then put the clutch on.

Anyway, if you've done it right with the correct parts.... with clutch nut tight, inner hub clamps thick bearing washer, tall spacer, two smaller OD spacer washers, and inner race of case bearing together so they spin as one part. So if inner basket spins freely (out of gear) and outer hub has a little in-out free play, you're fine.

I think [might be wrong] you can't do the crank seal without removing clutch as crank gear hits the basket. Later models had a seal retainer, mind you a nice new seal will be tight in the case. Not trying to tread on toes but [in my opinion] the flat bearing has very small rollers standing on end so don't give it much end clearance, very very little.

yes, clutch must be removed to change seal...  which is why if I'm going to mess with taking clutch off completely, I'm probably going to change the seal. 

And yes, a little end play...  You sure don't want enough end play that a little roller could escape! 

Thanks, all.

I think I'm sorted by adding the end washer below the inner hub. I have .025" end play in the basket with only one washer against the inner bearing, and if the two washers on the early bikes were 1mm and 2mm, I would have no end play by adding another of either. And the washer that is currently there is thicker than 2mm - so maybe this came with or was swapped to a thicker/later washer? Either way, .025" seems reasonable.