Im using a dial indicator on my 70 RT-1  I have the piston at 2.9 BTDC  and the advance pushed all the way counter clock wise, I set the points where they are just starting to open. but when I rotate the engine to check it . its not even close. what could I be doing wrong. I  am using used points could that be it. 

Is the cam follower on the points worn. Compare it to a new one.

Does the advance mechanism move freely without binding and no slop.

Is the stator plate original to the bike. It is different from the other Enduros without the advance mechanism.

Is the crank key broken & flywheel moved. What went on before you decided to set the timing.

Found this just by googling & has a 'trick' wire clip to hold it on advance, save needing extra help. When you're holding it around can you feel a quite strong spring resisting you.

www.yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forum/h...d-setting-the-timing

My key is not broken, but i think I could have the wrong stator would like to see a close up pic of a 1970 RT-1 stator

Advance stator has the points set further out on the plate due to the 'Fat' cam--fat because it has to move on the center. So if you had the wrong stator plate the points would be nearer the center therefor you'd likely not get the flywheel on past the points. Or if it was even possibe you'd have a ]wild guess] 5mm points gap you couldn't close down. I'm saying this all off the cuff without researching but know enough to get myself into trouble haha.
Just a thought though--if you 'did' have the non advance stator then might be cheaper to buy a flywheel for 'that stator' & just kick it good & right from the top against compression & follow right through untill it hits the footrest to avoid kickback. That way you swing it through two compressions although the second one is probably more from inertia at the bottom of the kick stroke.

I’m confused. The first post says that the points were set to open at the proper time with the advance engaged. 

If the stator compatibility is in question, how did it get set properly in the first place?

I’m not sure if the “details” of the observed problem have been stated as yet. I read that after setting the timing, something went wrong. What went wrong? Points stopped opening? Opening at the wrong or random times? 

If I read all this wrong, then just ignore me. 

Yes DEET, now i'm confused too. I should have read the story fully before opening my mouth. Last line says "using Used points" so wonder if that's the problem if the fiber heal is 'very' worn. Not even sure how far out that'd put it if gap can still be set. I've seen 'once' the point button fall off, although that'd be obvious. Would a very worn fiber heal have the cam contacting the heal later--[nearer to tdc] compared to a longer heal reaching further around the cam so lifting earlier even with the same points gap in both cases. I'm convincing myself--i think lol.

I should have been more clear, this RT-1 I bought was in boxes everything but the stator was there, That's why I need to see one so I can match my advance flywheel.

I'll say right up front that I probably don't know 10% of what DEET knows about RT-1 ignition systems... and I was confused by first post too.

"Im using a dial indicator on my 70 RT-1  I have the piston at 2.9 BTDC  and the advance pushed all the way counter clock wise, I set the points where they are just starting to open. but when I rotate the engine to check it . its not even close. what could I be doing wrong. I  am using used points could that be it." 

I highlighted in blue where it says "everything was ok"....  1. Piston at correct position BTDC? Yes!  2. Advance locked open? Yes!  3. Points gap adjusted to where they just start to open after 1 and 2 in place?  Yes! 

But then when checked, "it's not even close"?

If the items in blue are actually true, then there can't be anything wrong with the stator or points or crank key or whatever...  what I hear the part in blue saying is points are able to be set to open at the correct time.  If stator was wrong or something then I'd expect the statement to say something like "piston is at 2.9 BTDC with advance locked open and I can't get points to just open at that point."

Can you carefully describe the "checking"...  what exactly are your steps of the "checking" process and what exactly do you see that prompts the comment "not even close"? 

It just doesn't make sense that you're able to set the points opening (timing) perfectly and then it's not set. 

One other question I have is how you're determining when the points open exactly at 2.9mm BTDC with advance locked open?  Meter?  Buzz box?  Eyeball?