Well, my 1971 HT1 has been reassembled and about done. I am close to attempting to start the little beauty.  Today, while sitting on the bike, I was shifting thru the gears and noticed that when the bike was in gear, if I engaged the clutch, it didn't seem to engage. I assumed if the bike was in gear, if I engaged the clutch, the bike would roll freely. But, it didn't.  Does the engine need to be running?  If not, any idea why the bike would not roll freely when engaging the clutch? I know those may be "novice" questions, but well... I'm a novice, so any help and advice is appreciated. Thanks!

Quite possible it will need a run or two to clear up.

You could try pulling the clutch lever in, tying it to the bars and leaving it overnight to see if that helps. As I said, though, you can't beat running the engine and doing a few miles to sort everything out.

More history would be helpful.  A stuck clutch is not that uncommon on a bike that has been sitting unused. 

Incorrect adjustment or a missing part could also cause it...  but you should be able to feel that at the lever...  (too much "free play".)

MarkT, you are right. Sorry I didn't provide any history, so here goes. The bike sat up unused for several (many?) years before I purchased it in 2016, but I really don't know how long. The bike was stored in a warehouse and in good shape when I acquired it. Since owning it, and throughout my restoration effort, I left oil in the crankcase to ensure the clutch remained lubricated. That's about all I know of it's history.

From what it appears to my untrained eye, the plates seem to be stuck, preventing it from dis-engaging. So, I was seeking ways to loosen them, starting with the simplest. Two days ago, I drained the oil and will put new oil in today. I'll try tying the clutch lever to the handlebar for a couple of days, since that sounds like a simple trick. I'm thinking too, running the bike might help. I read another post here where the poster said after starting and driving the bike with the clutch lever pulled in, the clutch eventually dis-engaged and worked as good as new. I just don't want to shift thru the gears, without the clutch, and risk damaging the tranny or engine.

When I dis-engage the clutch at the handlebar, it has that "stiffness" to it to suggest it is functioning (just not dis-engaging the plates). It isn't loose and takes a little effort to pull it in, although it is "smooth." Likewise, it isn't too tight either. It feels like clutches I've felt on other bikes.

I've kinda concluded the plates are stuck, but it could be something else. I hope this adds a bit more to the conversation. Thanks!

Nice write up!  Stuck clutch under those circumstances is not unusual...  fresh oil is not likely to help. 

Tying the lever to the bar at least overnight works 9 times out of 10 for me. 

Then just firmly try to roll it back and forth it in gear with the lever still pulled the next day and hopefully it will break free... 

Worst case is you'll have to pull the side cover and take the clutch apart to free up the plates.

Post some pics when you get a chance and let us know how you make out!

Here's a search which will probably have previous threads where we have talked about this very problem before, and other suggestions for what to do...
yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forums/sear...te=all&childforums=1

Thank you all for your responses.  I think I have a path forward and hopefully the clutch plates will free up on their own with trying these things.

I do need to confirm one thing.  I've checked the owners manual, the Clymer manual, the Tech Library and online and I find conflicting guidance on the amount of oil required.  Can someone please confirm how much oil I should be putting into this engine?

Thanks!

 

 You might've seen mine when i had it up here. My clutch was 'well' stuck up as you can imagine, but freed up ok after just riding it around the farm over bumps & jumps with the lever pulled back to the bar. Small point & sorry to mention it but in post #1 you talk about clutch engagement but is actualy dis-engagement or releasing when it frees up with the lever pulled back to the bar which i'm sure is what you're asking. All good. Can have a laugh at mine!! Have we got a pic of yours? earlier i guess. I bought up my pic hoping i could read the oil quantity which should be stamped or cast on the cover either by the filler or high up above & guessing something like 650cc or 700cc 'oil'. Had mine running by lunch time haha--or almost. Loved that bike.
Just had a look in my genuine Yamaha workshop bible & LT2 which will be the same says 700cc of oil + or -50cc. Just fully drain it as best you can & lean it left & right & put 700 in & don't worry about it as the didstick will show overfull but can be slow to get through into the center cases & level out.

Thanks! I found the 700cc on the case. So, 24 ounces will work. Will be focused on all this in the morning. I will also post pictures tomorrow.

Just a thought...  if you've tied the lever you might want to try to break the clutch free before adding oil?

That way, if you end up having to pull the cover, you don't have to drain the transmission again. 

And I saw you asked how much oil to put in the "engine"...  Just want to make sure you know the engine is lubricated by either the autolube two stroke injection pump or oil mixed into the gasoline. 

The oil you add to the case fill is for the transmission and clutch only.  Mentioning because I've seen engines siezed because a new owner wasn't familiar with two strokes and it wasn't clear to them that the engine was not lubricated by the oil they poured into the transmission.