finished restoring my 360, bike has stock air cleaner, boyesen reeds, spark arrestor removed, all stock jetting. runs smooth idles smooth no flat spots or hesitations , but just doesn’t feel like it’s as powerful as should be, feels like it hasn’t enough mid -top range. feels like there should be more in there? 

Just for a short while, see if removing the airbox lid makes any difference.

If oiled type air filter, make sure that filter is not over oiled.

Congratulations!  My first question is compared to what? 

They are not high revving fire breathing monsters...  just over 20 RWHP is realistic number and that's probably at less than 6,000 rpm.  This was at a time when popular cars like the VW Beetle had less than 50 HP at the crankshaft at under 5,000 rpm in a 2,000 lb car. 

When we were kids these bikes were relatively fast and powerful compared to other vehicles...  in modern terms they simply aren't what we remembered. 

This is another member's stock DT360.  I never had mine on the dyno but my impressions match the chart very closely.

It's not a stellar performer in stock form by any means.  Bottom end is lethargic and there is a big hole in the midrange where a 360 single should really be punching out some torque.  Peak power is not much as you don't get to that until you wind it up to 5000-7000 RPM.

 The displacement is there and the motor can be greatly improved bottom to top without having to exceed the stock rev limit.  You will grind about half a pound of aluminum out of the cylinder by the time you're finished but if you're going to ride this thing I'd say it's worth it.  In addition to the porting it'll need a larger reed block and ideally a larger carburetor too.  Some sort of pipe is a big help as well, I use the MX360 item with some modifications. 

Be nice if the peeps that know how to modify the exhaust pipe let the cat out of the bag.. be easy to cut the back/engine side out and preform this task… braze the patch back on…
Sneezles61

what is everyone setting the ignition at, I just finished putting mine together and have ignition  set per service manual   (2.9)   it just feels like timing is a little off. runs smooth, idles well, just no snap to the power just a solid pull all the way to top.  fells like lacking top 1/3 range.  I believe its not jetting. jetting is stock.

Modifying the stock exhaust will make it louder but you won't find more power in there short of rolling up your own cones and making an imitation sleeper pipe. 

Even with the stock exhaust though, proper porting will improve power across the board, specially in the low-mid. 

What larger reed block do you recommend?

I'm using a Kawasaki 12021-0004.  Requires removal of a substantial amount of material to stuff that puppy in there but it will fit.

In hindsight, it would have been interesting to do just that perhaps in conjunction with a larger carb just to see what it does on an otherwise stock engine.  Porting and all the rest is beneficial but the intake improvements might be good enough for some.  The stock reed block is extremely undersized.  Would have been better to design this thing with a conventional piston port induction system than cork it up with a reed system that is undersized even for an engine with half the displacement.

How did you set the timing, being cdi its not likely to be out of spec unless someones been playing in there.not. By memory the pulser coil can be adjusted. Also by memory the stator plate is slotted so room to play. Could strobe it running to see how the marks correspond & if it alters at revs although won't alter much if at all.