I'm trying to remove my flywheel magneto and just want to confirm that the nut holding on the flywheel magneto turns counter-clockwise to come off.  It doesn't want to budge just yet and before I reef on it - I'd like to know for sure.

I know the flywheel magneto puller I will use after I remove the nut from the shaft has left-hand threads and will install counter-clockwise.

The only LH threads on the bike that I'm aware of are the 27mm x 1.0 ones the flywheel puller threads into.

(there could be some obscure LH threads inside the gauges or something)

Yes flywheel nut comes of counter clockwise [lefty loosey--righty tighty].
You're correct on the puller being lefty tighty--27x1 fine thread.
Now i'm confused.

Gotta hold it solid although my pic shows tightening it.
But reverse for loosening--good holding tool & half inch drive socket with a long handle.
photos.app.goo.gl/fzY3dh5k5Z7gWUXFA

Okay 

This is certainly very important to the person who has never removed a flywheel before. ? …

once the nut and lock washer are removed the important step is:

the left hand threaded puller ( I like motion pro ) 

YOU
MUST
MAKE 
SURE 
THE
PULLER 
ITSLF
IS ALL 
THE 
WAY
ON
UNTIL
IT 
STOPS 
TURNING
WITH
LARGE
CRESCENT
WRENCH

THEN INSERT THE PUSH PIN.

if you don’t have it threaded in all the way on
the left hand threads, holding the flywheel with your right hand and using a big wrench in your left hand you could possibly pull the puller out of the threads ..

if that happens oh boy!

AsHo

Thanks to all you for that confirmation.... and advice.  Very helpful.

Now I'm read for the reefin' and get that puppy off for some new points, etc.  Wish me luck.

Unless the bike has a lot of miles or something is physically wrong with the points, I wouldn't change them.  Parts replacing just to replace often ends up with issues, especially if using cheap modern replacement points and condenser.

Hmmm.... good point (pun intended).
I believe ya. Being old school, I should have been thinking that.

Definitely worth giving them a clean, though! 

As ASCO says--remove washers [there's a thick spring & a thick flat washer]. Hook them both out for the puller to get fully threaded in.
Also as stated leave the [push pin] puller bolt 'out' until puller body is fully home, or bolt can hit the crank & give a false indication of being fully home.
You only get one chance with the fine thread 27mm LH.
Just a warning, i have a puller here that isn't deep enough in the middle so crank hits it before fully home.
Not one i use, but same 27mm LH thread puller is used on damn near everything so might've been a genuine honda 50 puller from when we had both brands at work in the "60's until "76.
I'd think any puller on ebay etc would be plenty deep these days. Especially if marked for a DT1 or similar.