My question is if this HT coil is a 6v or 12v coil???

I've been dinking around for more than a year on restoration of this bike and I gave up on the points igniton and replaced it with a HPI unit.  Setup was quick and straightforward with one exception being that the spark is very faint.  After cussing at this issue for a while and testing coils and wires and grounds I think I may have a bad HT coil.  Initially, I had the HT coil from the HPI kit installed with a resistor boot and resistor plug.  I think that is overkill so I changed out plug and didn't notice a difference.  I put the HT coil that was on the bike back on the bike and i think the spark is better...still not super intense.  HPI asked me if the HT coil was 12v or 6v and I don't know what that system is to begin with.  Any help is much appreciated.

6v.  Same coil fits many models from fs1 moped to the bigger DTs irrespective of points or cdi system.

so the HPI system is a 12 V system, so does that mean the coil for the spark plug matters in that some HT coils are 6 V in summer 12 V???
 I mean right now I’m using the old coil which I had bought brand new and it seems to produce better spark than the new coil that came with the HPI system and I’m wondering if I have a bad Ignition system somewhere but I have no idea how to test any of it because HPI doesn’t provide that information 

If it counted, I am sure your system manufacturer would have provided one.  
So far as I am aware, 6 or 12v only counts if the coil is getting supplied with battery voltage.

Mag system is variable.

Biggest no no is fitting resistor cap and resistor plug together.

ET magneto coils are not 6 volt or 12 volt as far as I know. 

They also don't normally put out 50,000 volts to the plug when kicking over....  or ever.  Plug gap is often best set at 0.024" or less.

It's not uncommon to not be able to see the spark at all in bright sunlight.  Impossible to know what "not super intense" means...  reading between the lines, I'm guessing it doesn't run?  Could be a lot of reasons that have nothing to do with the ignition system. 

If you can see the spark it'll run generally providing it has fuel & is in time etc. spark might look weak but sure wouldn't want to get a belt off it.

Thanks all. I think the big issue as was pointed out was that I had resistor plug and cap in the system so trading one of those out made very little difference with the intensity of the plug. I started checking the timing and think that was off. I found that it was set to about 2.4mm btc. I brought it back to 1.7-1.8mm and it starts easier.

MKD, been trolling this thread because I am installing new points on my MX100F. On the outside casing of the magneto there are two marks, which one is TDC, is the other BTDC ? I have found the reference mark below the capacitor, but determining the TDC mark on the magneto is difficult. It is not identified in my Climber manual. 

Timing marks are not mentioned in manuals because you're supposed to use a dial indicator to find TDC and distance before TDC that the points open.  You also need a method to determine exactly when points open.  "Eyeball" doesn't work very well at all, you will be 5 to 10 degrees off most of the time. 

I'm guessing you don't have the correct tools to set the timing.  When I had my first 100 as a kid, I didn't either.  I used what today I call the "RT325" method of setting the maximum points gap to 0.014" to start.  My Dad had an automotive timing light and I had a book call "Motorcycle Tuning for Performance".  I put a piece of tape on the flywheel with evenly spaced marks and a mark on the case.  (I eyeballed the "points just opening" as best I could and lined up the center mark on the tape with the mark on the case.)

Then I used the strobe and found it was quite a bit more advanced than my "eyeball" method so I repositioned the tape to center it a little better.  Keep in mind, I had NO IDEA what the actual timing was!  This was just a starting point.  I marked the tape where the strobe said it was firing.

Then I rode the bike.  It started good and ran good.  No kick back or super slow idle (it was idling perfect before) which could indicate timing advanced or retarded too much.  We did a bunch of acceleration runs with a stop watch and got a pretty good average.  

Then I opened the max point gap a tiny bit...  literally like a hair.  This advances the timing.  I confirmed with the tape and strobe.  It was now firing a little more advanced.  More acceleration tests were done and the bike was consistently a little bit slower.  Oops.

So I closed the max point gap like 2 hairs.  Confirmed with the strobe that it was now a little bit retarded from the very first try.  More acceleration tests.  It was a little quicker now!   

Long story short, fiddled with testing different point gap settings until the performance measured the best.  Then I marked that point with a file scratch on the flywheel that lined up with the case mark.  

Max point gap was 0.013" for that timing setting so that's what I'd use in the future and I'd verify the marks I made lined up with the strobe afterwards.  

To this day I have no idea exactly where it was timed as I never got the tools to check it correctly.  I basically just used the method in the "performance" book to set timing for best performance.  

I would NOT use this method on a bigger bike like a 250 or especially a 360.  The bigger bikes can kick back, break parts, and even break ankles if you get a little too advanced.  But the little 80's and 100's are more forgiving.
 

Greetings from Tennessee