AL you are correct it would be a work around. I’m going to my local Yamaha dealer this week they have been in business since 1970 they don’t throw away anything so maybe I can luck out if one exists 

Would be great if they had a complete library of Service Bulletins that could be "borrowed".........! 

Great idea AL I’ll check that out too

The saga continues....
I am planning on using Stainless steel bolts to replace the rusted chrome bolts on my ride. After measuring the bolts needing to be replaced I find that motodads are for the Enduro line, not the MX. The MX are slightly longer in a number of cases, I guess for example, the triple trees are aluminum, not steel so the bolts I need are 35mm not 30mm.

So there are a number of bolts I cannot use that he has, so that's why the SS replacement.

For a while I thought I found the best bolt supplier on line, cheap bolts fast delivery, free shipping over 20 bucks or close to it, and they had the 6mmx1.0x55mm bolt I have been trying to find for a long time for my chain guide, The 4mm thick washers for the head bolts, neat things like that.

The problem I found, after I got the order is the bolts for the handlebar mount and triple tree clamps are weaker than a grade 5 steel bolt. The SS bolts are marked A2 70. so I have emailed the bolt place just earlier to ask if they have anything that is stronger than what I have now. Class 8.8 in SS is the same as grade 5 steel. That would be good to get that.

What do you guys think? I figure with it being the front end, I do not want something that may fatigue, break and fall off, literally.

Hello,
I am no expert and new to the forum but I will share my thoughts on SS bolts. Your question on the integrity of the use of SS bolts on critical parts such as the front end and triple trees should be evaluated carefully. In my experience, conventional SS bolt that are readily available from hardware and farm supply stores are much softer than a hardened steel fastener. I have avoided SS bolts in critical areas of any project for a long time. Many years ago I went on an organized vintage snowmobile ride and witnessed a restored masterpiece get completely destroyed hitting a tree due to stainless bolts in the skis.

Best of luck on your project and finding fasteners that meet your needs.

I don't use stainless for "critical" fasteners either... they make strong ones but finding them and being sure they are good quality is not worth the risk to me.

(Allen head case screws is about the only place I can think I've used stainless on a Yamaha.)

Thanks guys, not knowing what the grade of the bolts were on the front end originally, on top of hoping that the metric equivalent of the SAE standard, that the bolts I ordered were at least going to be 8.8 class, the same as grade 5 in SAE terms.

The supplier did get back to me about the grade/class rating, they did mention it was 10% weaker than grade 5.

Seems like I need to rechrome the originals since motodads ebay site does not have what I need.

Bummer.

If you haven't done so already, have a quick scan of fleabay to see if anyone is selling a job lot of parts for your bike. It's a bit of a lottery, but it is possible to find good condition nuts, bolts etc in those lots - even apparent dirty ones can clean up really well.

Not sure that bolts would have been chromed on an MX? Maybe nickel plated?

Anyway, make sure you use a chrome shop that knows that they are doing... sonicplatinginc.com/services/hydrogen-embrittlement/

Might not be an issue, depends on the strength of bolts used to start with, just good to know about.

@ Mark T, I am a bit concerned about which are chromed (concerned for the cost mainly) or nickel plated. Reading about what nickel plating does when it gets nicked, exposing the steel under it, it will blister really bad. I had a number of bolts do that on the triple tree. That's the reason why I wanted to go with stainless. The chain adjusters are chrome, I believe since they are marred from the axle nut but no blistering of the finish. A number of the other nuts and bolts are zinc plated which I will do myself as well as the nickel plating. I have most of the needed items ready to go. Last major investment, $26 USD is the clear chromate needed for the last dip after zinc plating.