What you could do is add extra steels into the clutch first...  they can be stacked. 

I'm a page behind but the unsplined pressure plate won't have a face full size to run on the fiber. It'd no doubt work but all the torque is then taken on the spring posts. In saying 'that' i've seen them assembled like that by inexperienced owners & the bikes lived to tell the tale with no damage.

Yamaha Service Bulletin 312 describes an update to the R5 clutch that uses 7 frictions and 7 steels.  It deletes the first thick steel in the original clutch and the new steels are slightly thinner.

Instructions say "The clutch must be assembled with the first friction against the clutch boss" and then they show a diagram showing the first disc is a friction.  Then the stack would end with a steel. 

So there's your answer. 

Great info! Thanks for your research.
I guess I'll go back in and change it. I'm glad I used a new gasket, it will be easy to get back in there.


Edit: The Yambits steels came with the one thick and 6 thinner like the original set. I guess I'll need to determine if I can get the 7 frictions and then have to add one thin steel form the og set. Hopefully the stack will not be too thick.

Found my camera.  Here's a pic of the diagrams:

 

You might want to hold off on taking it apart...  I was half asleep when I found the the bulletin that I had vaguely remembered. 

As you can see in the diagram, they had a new part for the inner clutch hub that had a wider flange for the disc to sit on.  Part number is 360-16371-00

I think that's the same as a later RD350 but RD parts show 360-16370

Awesome. Thanks Mark     RT325-I rode it around and it seemed to ride fine with the friction to the pp setup. Good to hear that you have not seen any carnage to the pp with the friction against it. 

The AT/CT clutch parts diagrams are wrong...  I've seen a lot of them assembled incorrectly with friction against pressure plate.  I've never seen one damaged either.

You should be fine.  Another option would be to use the stock steels and only 6 frictions.  That first thick steel is there because there isn't a flange on the hub.

Just stuff to keep in mind and check for if you start to have issues...  but if it's working good, I'd leave it. 

That's the plan for now Mark. I recovered the seat and used the Fernco rubber pvc pipe joints from Home Depot for carb to airbox, since the old ones were way shrunk. The bike runs really well. I didn't want to get on it too hard as it needs tires and I will replace the brake shoes, but the bike was begging to goooo.

The cool thing is that while riding I discovered it is 6 speed. These were 5 speed until the RD350's. Someone stuck a 6 speed in there.
 
 

Hmmm... you might have an RD clutch then too? Do you remember what the inner hub looked like?