Anyone who's had it done what would be a good guesstimate on cost for both rims?  My Stainless steel rims for my DT400 came in today so I'm trying to figure out how much this is going to set me back to get them laced. 

Neighbor across the street from me has laced rims many times, he said it's not that difficult. Other than that, I have no idea what it will cost, but you might be able to do it yourself. Just watch some videos.

www.google.com/search?q=how+to+lace+moto...eDCqWckPIP7uWs8AY_29

Thanks Tom, I might try but am not sure I want the frustration of trying to true them not to mention getting the spokes in the right order.

Just a suggestion, but it really doesn't look difficult. There's a video on truing as well.

I used this video to snug my spokes, and it worked well. Many of them were loose, and now they all sound the same when I tap them. If you tap and hear a thud, it's loose.

www.google.com/search?q=how+to+snug+spok...msFvy7kPIPmPS62Ac_42

Thanks again, I did watch the video (thanks for that), so I may give it a shot - what's the worst that can happen...

At worst, you'd have them laced, then just take them in if you can't get them trued :o)

That's more or less my thinking as well, I'll see if I can watch some more videos to get different perspectives on how to do it as well as burn it in my little brain.

For me personally truing wheels and getting rid of the hop is easy. Initial Lay Out not so easy. Drilling wheel lock holes it’s nice to have a second person. Nope’ not doing it a second time after completing polishing hubs, and installing tires too. 

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Did your new rims come in undrilled??? I would hope not, as getting the 4 angles correct 36 times could be daunting. I think they usually use a jig for that step.

Unlace your old rim carefully, realizing that you have inners and outers on each side. The DT400 you are working on has an unequal hub (one side is smaller than the other), so separate them into 4 different piles.

Look at the (hopefully) drilled rim and determine left/right (look at how the old rim is drilled to help here). I usually start by installing all the inner spokes on both sides of the hub as (for me) installing the inners on one side after I've done the opposite sometimes requires me to remove spokes from the side I just did  , Once I get them all going the correct way with a nipple threaded just a thread or 2, then I will go to the outer spokes, first one side then the other, again just a thread or 2.

So now I have the hub laced to the rim with all spokes threaded on very lightly and the whole assembly is floppy. At that point I start by going around the rim (I start at the valve stem hole) turning each nipple a thread at a time until they are all starting to feel the same tension. 

At this point I mount the assembly up on my truing stand and spin a few times to see how bad it is (   ), and gradually work my way around to each spoke tightening each just a bit at a time until things start getting snug. I have a dial indicator but a pointer alone is also useful, to tell you where the high/low spots on the rim are. My "rule of thumb" is that the inner spokes control the hop and the outer spokes control the side-to-side, but really, they affect each other, so go slowly. Once I have them all pretty tight and I am satisfied with how the rim looks on the stand, I gradually tighten down each one at a time, checking the trueness until I feel all spokes have the same(or close it it) tension.

Take your time, don't be in a rush, have a jar of patience handy ( ). Personally I find the task relaxing

You seem pretty savvy so I suspect you can handle it. 

I was always intimidated by wheel lacing...  then when I built my "Super DT50", I bought an OEM "big wheel kit" from Yamaha for the YZ85 since I had decided to use YZ85 suspension.

I thought I'd be getting assembled wheels...  What I got was all the individual parts to build new wheels.  Hubs, bearings, spokes, rims were separate. 

I think it was Scott (Scootern29) that wrote up a decent wheel building tutorial on here?  Anyway, it wasn't nearly as difficult or time-consuming as I imagined it would be. 

(I was told by Scott that if you have new rims, it's a breeze to true them...  and it was...  if you're starting with used bent/wobbly rims, it's supposed to be much harder...  I used my cheap Harbor Freight Motorcycle wheel balancer with a dial indicator clamped to it.  www.harborfreight.com/motorcycle-wheel-b...ing-stand-58738.html  Hmm...  my stand is older and not as fancy but I think it was only $29.)