Has anyone actually used Loctite 600 series bearing retaining compounds to repair a spun crank bearing? I have a CT2 with a mag side crank bearing loose on the shaft. The area where the bearing normally sits is approx. .002" smaller than the area just outboard (where the seal rides) This allows a very noticeable slop at the flywheel. I believe Loctite 638 would be the best choice, but does it really work?

I've used the High Strength Green with good results... not on a shaft that I remember.

In the truck shop I worked in we used Loctite Quick Metal... looks like it's part #660 from an Internet search... on worn shafts/bearings. Worked great. Need to make sure everything is spotless... we used the primer too.

I looked at the quick metal product too, but it looks like it would be better for larger gaps. I measured a difference of only .002" and the 638 is supposed to be good for up to .010". My question would be whether any of them would stand up to the radial pressure on the shaft of a running crank.

I used Quick Metal to repair a spun wheel bearing on an old Champ forklift. When I finally found a replacement spindle, took the hub off and bearing was still tight so left it alone. That big old lift was used almost every day in bumpy off road conditions... when we sold it a few years later we gave the new spindle to the new owner. Loctite was still holding up fine.

Also used it in heavy duty transmissions where a bearing was loose on the shaft or in the case. The only downside I remember was you need to use a lot of heat to get it back apart.

I will stress again that the surfaces must be spotlessly clean. We used loctite cleaner and primer.